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Sthe real cause of the arc pro digital racing on analog problem

gorp

834 posts

First a big thank you to woodcoat for advising me to buy the improved arc pro.

Yes, it is finally fantastic.

 

But why are those new dpr chipped cars so bad running on the analog side ?

Now know clearly.

Dug out my original ones from the digital beginning and up to a few years ago.

They had both soldered in and earlier dpr installed.

Guess what ?

They worked great, just like days when would beat their analog with my digital on analog tracks.

Tested new set cars again and then tried last purchase, the scaly javalin with latest dpr and they were all terrible.

So as far as I am concerned, the problem is not the arc pro, but it is that highly praised, latest DPR chip , which I have no problem with running on digital but truly believe should be avoided for analog racing.

It appears that chip was tested about as well as they did the original arc pro.

Shame on scaly.

 

gorp

 

woodcote

1138 posts

Hi gorp. Yes, the RevH chip has uprated components and passes more power to the motor. As a result, cars are faster compared to using the older chip versions. They also feel as if they have less brakes (in digital mode), but that might simply be a result of the extra speed. I've also noticed a bit more of a 'jump' over the older straight crossovers where the braids can briefly short.

 

I race a Javelin at WHO/digital and switched back to a Rev G chip as it was easier to drive on our big layouts. All my other race cars - GT3, BTCC and Ford GT40 - have the Rev H, are a joy to drive and have won races. I think it's a case of the Javelin's thinner rear track and higher centre of gravity. We run without magnets - I think the issue would be negligible with magnets (which how most people will run their cars).

 

After my experience with the Javelin, I have kept my Rev G chips in case I get another car that works better with the G than the H. So far, it's just the Javelin - but I am preparing a Mk1 Cortina for the autumn that might also benefit from testing with both versions.

 

As for analogue - I don't run my chipped cars on analogue. If they were DPR, I'd remove the chip. It takes 30-seconds.

Andy Player

gorp

834 posts

You are a lot faster than I am swapping in and out the dpr chip.

Usually pop body off and use tweezers on the side so not to pull out wires.

 

But real problem is someone buys the set and gets these fine digital toys but no analog hatches are included.

So he has to buy more cars just to get them and is then stuck again needing to switch back when ready.

 

But since the scaly digital car has always been advertised to also run on analog, prefer to keep them that way, just to beat analog racers and show them that digital is just as good as analog on analog.

 

Just wish I could locate some more g or earlier dpr chips to replace all the h.

gorp

834 posts

After a conversation today with Alan Smith of 132slotcar.us , decided to try another test.

 

Pulled out the updated arc pro and stuck in arc one, the analog only powerbase with wired controllers.

The javelin with the H chip, that ran so badly on the arc pro analog side, ran perfectly fine on arc one.

So the H analog problem is really an inherent problem of arc pro.

Do owe scaly an apology for earlier comment on the H chip.

 

Now you have 4 choices for arc pro analog :  1 to just run digital only with the H as many slot newbies will have to or 2 to replace chip hatch with analog one, again must own other dpr cars that are chipped thus having a hatch available or 3 replacing the H with a soldered in chip, which does actually run well on analog or 4 when racing analog, switch in an analog only powerbase, while  using the arc app for lap counting or adding an analog lap counter.

 

In hindsite, personally was futher ahead before, by having done the arc pro mod, which made it a great digital only powerbase and then just swapping in analog base and lap counter when desired.

 

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