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Woodcote

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woodcote

727 posts

@Muttley

Back in my younger days we used to take the magnets out of the cars so they would slide more around corners etc. Was a lot of fun and quite challenging.Is this helpful/advisable?

That’s quite a thing now - replacing traction magnets with similarly-shaped brass weights. There are manufacturers who produce their own brass-weighted cars: the BSRT G-Jet, the Wizzard Thunderstorm, several Slottech brass cars and the new Viper V-Jet. Brass weights are also manufactured for the Tyco 440x2 and Tomy Turbo. All of them are fun to drive, but may need the power turned down to 12 or 15 volts.

 

With cars like the Micro Scalextric or Tony Mega-G+ you can remove the small neodymium traction magnets and then fill the magnet pockets with tungsten putty (anglers use this to weight their fishing lines). Although not as effective as the brass weights on the ‘pro’ cars, you do get a car - at 12 volts - that is fun to drive with plenty of sliding action. With the Micro Scalextric cars, it is worth using the older steel pin guide rather than the modern plastic flag - the pin allows the car to drift more predictably.

woodcote

727 posts

Hi Haybaler - welcome to the forum.

 

For analogue, you need one controller paired with red and another paired with green. Those are the only two pairings that will work with analogue mode - green with the inside lane and red with the outside. Sounds like you did that, but it’s worth checking again.

woodcote

727 posts

Hi Dirk - welcome to the forum!

 

It sounds like the installation of the Scalextric chip was fine and the problem only happened when you changed the guide blade. If the car is now not working at all, I suspect that in fitting the new (red) guide blade you have trapped some of the braid under the guide or dislodged the upper (solid metal) part of the braid assembly. That might mean there is a poor connection with the track or there is a short (the braid on each side of the guide is touching). I would expect a short to trigger a power overload on the powerbase and it is possible the chip has been damaged - but we can hope not...

 

The first thing I would do is remove the guide, ensure the solid part of the braid assembly is correctly fitted and that the braids are pulled aside before you re-attach the guide blade. Check and double check there are no strands of braid trapped under the guide blade. Bend the braids down a little for a good connection and, finally, check the braids are not touching each other out the back of the guide. Fingers-crossed that now works...

woodcote

727 posts

Hi Joe - welcome to the forum!

 

Sounds like you’ve done some excellent trouble-shooting already. From your detailed description, I’d suggest looking underneath the car at the back. There is a ‘blister’ on the bottom of the chassis/underpan that covers the crown gear (the big gear on the axle). Sometimes this can sit too low and catches on the track, effectively lifting the rear wheels off the track - giving the wheelspin you describe. The remedy is to sand or shave down the blister - either with a file, sandpaper or a scalpel. If you get it flat to the bottom of the underpan, the problem should be resolved.

 

One other thing that can cause a car to feel ’choppy’ is that the braid plate is not 100% aligned properly on the guide. The plate can shift forward a little causing poor connectivity and characteristic ‘choppiness’. Have a play with the plate, so how it is removed and re-fitted and then ensure it is pushed back so it sits firmly in the notch in the guide and covers the round base of the guide assembly. Sometimes the guide plate is not fitted properly at the factory and it can also become dislodged after a heavy crash.

 

I hope that fixes the Falcon for you!

woodcote

727 posts

To answer your question: that design shows me two right-hand pit entry pieces end to end at the bottom right of the picture. Pit out are the corresponding pit exit (fixed-flipper) pieces. So you need two C7015 right-hand pit lanes for that design.

 

Is it a good design for ARC Pro racing? In my opinion, no. The two pit entries are too close, the five straight lane changers are unnecessary (and too close) and the entire pit lane will take up fourteen feet - plus extra straights and corners each end. So it will require a table around twenty feet long. Also, five unnecessary lane changers plus an unnecessary pit lane set = $350+ for something that won’t add anything positive to your racing.

 

My advice would be to save the $350, use what you already have in the set, add some length (using C7016 single lane half straights) so you have around 3-4 feet of pit lane and see if that is sufficient when you are racing. If you decide a double pit lane is absolutely necessary, you’ll need an extra pit lane track (the same as you have in the set). To be able to choose whether to change lane a second time - you’ll want to see which lane is empty and decide which lane to choose - you’ll also need extra distance and thinking time, perhaps an extra 3-4 feet between pit entry 1 and pit entry 2. If that makes sense?

woodcote

727 posts

As I said earlier...

Although that pit lane does look very neat and allows each car to stop outside its own pit stall, I think you are right that functionality might be a problem - especially if you stop on a dead spot on a lane changer or miss a sensor. I do like a two-lane pit lane as it gives you the option to avoid a slow-pitting car in front of you. But not all those lane changers!

Similarly with those two lane changers on the main track - I wouldn't place two lane changers (a pit in and a straight lane changer) so close together. You run the risk of catching the wrong one or missing them both - and that is frustrating and poor design.

 

I would say there is a compromise with digital. Lane changing and pit lanes does give the potential for a very realistic set-up - you could say 'prototypical' if you were a model railroader. If you drive slowly and take care on lane changers, you can mimic a real-life race track like you would with a model railroad layout. That's where that pit lane fits in...

 

However - and it's a very big 'however' - if slot cars are about driving fast and racing each other, I'd want my layout design to be 100% functional for racing. So 'racing line' out-to-in curved lane changers become a corner-tightening hazard to avoid. And pit lanes like that in the book become impossible to use. Ultimately, you only find out what works and what doesn't by using various pieces in different ways. I'd start simple and add more lane changers only where you find you need them. Focus on having fun and enjoying exciting racing. The only right way to build a track is what provides the most fun for you and your racing pals.

 

Two lines of cars in the pits can help if you are racing with three or more people with ARC Pro (when you will be pitting at more or less the same time) - but only if you have the room. Otherwise a single-lane pit lane that holds six cars is perfectly sufficient - it will mean you can get stuck behind a slowly-pitting car, but that becomes part of the game-play and can be avoided by pitting early or pitting at the last moment. In other words, a simpler pit lane might add to the strategy and excitement!

woodcote

727 posts

Okay - so the pic on page 27 of Slot Car Racing in the Digital Age. The photo is cropped so you don’t actually see the original pit-in or the  final pit-out. The six single lane pieces will be needed alongside those two pit pieces which are 3 x half straights in length.

 

Although that pit lane does look very neat and allows each car to stop outside its own pit stall, I think you are right that functionality might be a problem - especially if you stop on a dead spot on a lane changer or miss a sensor. I do like a two-lane pit lane as it gives you the option to avoid a slow-pitting car in front of you. But not all those lane changers!

woodcote

727 posts

A right-hand pit entry means the car enters the pit from the right-hand lane of the track. A left-hand pit entry means the car enters the pit from the left-hand lane of the track. The entry piece is the only ‘active’ lane changing piece (the lane change button chooses an entry) - the exit piece is fixed and simply guides a car out of the pit back onto the track (the lane change button has no effect).

 

The ARC Pro GT Platinum set came with a right-hand pit lane as standard, as does the Sunset Speedway set. 

 

Only one of Robert Schleicher’s books covers digital systems in detail - Slot Car Racing in the Digital Age. Chapter 2 of that book compares digital systems that were available in 2007. I do love Robert’s books - but I’m not sure which photo/plan you are referring to.

woodcote

727 posts

The right-left direction is because that’s how the sensors in the track must work. But, as Dr_C said, you only have to turn the powerbase 180-degrees to change from clockwise to counter-clockwise.

 

It’s the same with almost all Scalextric powerbases - apart from the latest Stock Car Challenge set, where the powerbase runs the oval counter-clockwise. Perhaps it’s because most British and European race tracks run clockwise? 

woodcote

727 posts

Hi Lannoc - welcome to the forum!

 

1) the tournament mode is pretty limited. Personally, I don’t bother and use either pen and paper or a simple spreadsheet to manage the race data from the app. I know the developer of the unofficial Magic app for ARC Pro was looking at a more user-friendly tournament mode, but I don’t know how far he got with it...

 

2) that does sound like some sort of pace car mode has kicked in... I’ve not seen it myself. If it continues to occur, it is worth reporting it as a bug. There are details of what you need to tell Scalextric in the ninth post of the thread here: https://www.scalextric.com/uk-en/forum/latest-arc-pro-app/?p=1

 

I hope that helps!

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