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Woodcote

Signature: Andy Player

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woodcote

1134 posts

Hi Livio - welcome to the forum!

 

A Micro Scalextric collector created this website for all sets and cars produced 1994 to 2014: www.microscalextric.wickedlemon.co.uk

 

All the new 2019 & 2020 sets and cars are listed in this thread: www.scalextric.com/uk-en/forum/new-micro-scalextric-track-system

 

I hope that helps!

Andy Player

woodcote

1134 posts

Hi Ralph - I am an Andy P too (very confusing)...The question is, what were the six Le Mans cars that you'd bought in your dream?

 

I realise I have well and truly blown your budget, so I definitely won't mention the fabulous (and very good value) retro-Le Mans buildings in the GP Miniatures range. They come as printed & laminated foamboard kits... but you really don't need to look at them here: https://www.pendleslotracing.co.uk/brand/gp-miniatures.html

Andy Player

woodcote

1134 posts

Hi BeckhamTobias - welcome to the forum!

 

If you are looking for a fun HO (1/64 scale set) to enjoy with your kids, I would suggest the new Micro Scalextric range. If you are in North America, this is the link: www.scalextric.com/us-en/shop/by-brand/micro

 

Ignore the Hyper Cars set (and the P9503 Transformer) which is part of the old range and nowhere near as good. The sets on that page are all battery-powered, so a set (or two) of six rechargable AA batteries will be handy. The system works really well with the battery power. The Justice League set is huge and you can add the other two DC Comics cars, plus Wile E. Coyote and Road Runner. The basic Looney Tunes (Daffy Duck vs Bugs Bunny) is smaller, but still makes four different layouts. The controllers can restrict the maximum power available, so are ideal for learner drivers.

 

In the UK, there is a little more choice, and European mains power options: www.scalextric.com/uk-en/shop/by-brand/micro - just ignore the American Racers and Race Karts sets, which are the old system.

 

I've written about the new Micro Scalextric system here: www.scalextric.com/us-en/forum/new-micro-scalextric-track-system and here: www.scalextric.com/uk-en/new-micro-system-sets

 

I hope that helps.

Andy Player

woodcote

1134 posts

Hi Ralph - that is an old mould and will look and perform very differently to the modern Scalextric cars. My rule of thumb is to race cars manufactured in the past 20 years together. Older cars are fun (and can be chipped), but they are different beasts, both to the eye and on the track.

 

If you are 100% set on some 1970-1 Le Mans cars, I would suggesting looking at the Spanish 'Fly' classics (also sold under the Slotwings and FlySlot brand names). The performance and finish will be in the same ball park as the Scalextric cars - the price a bit more. The C7005 retro-fit chip converts them to digital. Look for Porsche 917k & 917 LH, Ferrari 512S & Coda Lunga, Lola T70 MkIIIB and Porsche 908 Flunder LH. There are some 60s cars too - Ferrari 250 GTO & 250 LM, Ford GT40 & GT MkII. If you are a 60s-70s Le Mans fanatic, the Fly cars are essential considerations. Together with the Scalextric Ford GT40s, they are what rekindled my slot car passion back 15-20 years ago.

Andy Player

woodcote

1134 posts

Hi Shaun - welcome to the forum!

 

Pattos Place produce Lightning McQueen decals in 1/24, 1/32, 1/43 and 1/64 scale, depending on which model you are restoring. You're looking for the sheet "#95 - Lite'n Mc Queen" in the N/car list.

 

I hope that helps!

Andy Player

woodcote

1134 posts

Hi Eric - if you have the Sunset Speedway or Le Mans 24 Hour set, the powerbase is compatible with the old curved lane changers. If you want to use the analogue mode of ARC Pro, you will need to follow the tips at the bottom of this page: https://www.scalextric.com/uk-en/support/scalextric-digital

 

Modifying a curved lane changer (and the other tips in that section) for using analogue mode with the C7042 powerbase is the same for analogue and ARC Pro. If will use you layout only for digital running, you can ignore those tips.

 

I hope that helps.

Andy Player

woodcote

1134 posts

Hi gorp. Yes, the RevH chip has uprated components and passes more power to the motor. As a result, cars are faster compared to using the older chip versions. They also feel as if they have less brakes (in digital mode), but that might simply be a result of the extra speed. I've also noticed a bit more of a 'jump' over the older straight crossovers where the braids can briefly short.

 

I race a Javelin at WHO/digital and switched back to a Rev G chip as it was easier to drive on our big layouts. All my other race cars - GT3, BTCC and Ford GT40 - have the Rev H, are a joy to drive and have won races. I think it's a case of the Javelin's thinner rear track and higher centre of gravity. We run without magnets - I think the issue would be negligible with magnets (which how most people will run their cars).

 

After my experience with the Javelin, I have kept my Rev G chips in case I get another car that works better with the G than the H. So far, it's just the Javelin - but I am preparing a Mk1 Cortina for the autumn that might also benefit from testing with both versions.

 

As for analogue - I don't run my chipped cars on analogue. If they were DPR, I'd remove the chip. It takes 30-seconds.

Andy Player

woodcote

1134 posts

Hi Eric. If you put an analogue powerbase into a circuit it will only deliver power when you pull the throttle on a controller plugged into that powerbase. So any second or third powerbases around the track will not deliver any extra power to the track. If you were to do that on a digital layout, it would be the same - no extra power. And you really wouldn't want to mix the AC power from the digital powerbase with the DC power from the analogue powerbase. It might be a very expensive disaster.

 

The way to avoid power drops as you move away from the powerbase is to:

 

  • keep the track clean
  • keep the track connections in good order
  • install power taps or 'jumpers'

 

That's the same for analogue or digital tracks and there is more here: www.scalextric.com/uk-en/support/track-maintenance

 

At my local Scalextric digital club, we build temporary tracks every month for an evening or day of racing. The circuits are 100 to 150-foot long and built in just over an hour. The track is given a good clean once a year and all the track tabs tightened. During construction, if the connection between two track pieces feels particularly loose, we will tighten the tabs.

 

Each race track is built with two or three power taps running from a track piece next to the powerbase to 1/4, 1/2 and 3/4 of the way round the circuit (or 1/3 and 2/3 for shorter tracks, or one 1/2 way round for tracks of 30-50 feet). A power tap is simply a length of wire that runs from the rail of one track piece to exactly the same rail on another track piece. Scalextric produced their own C8248 Track Power Bosster Cables, but these are hard to get hold of. Jadlam Racing Models have their own version: www.jadlamracingmodels.com/scalextric-c8248-sport-track-power-booster-cable-2x/

 

The first cars to be run after the track is built have one drop of INOX MX3 put on each braid and the cars are run round the track, over the lane changers and through the pit lanes. INOX MX3 seems to work perfectly to clean and condition digital track rails, limiting electrical arcing and keeping the digital signals as good as they possibly can be. I would say it is a must-have for all digital racers - if used in small amounts. Pendle Slot Racing sell INOX MX3 in the UK and have two products. I would recommend decanting the pump spray into small dropper bottles. www.pendleslotracing.co.uk/brand/inox

 

After the racing, the disassembled track pieces are stored in covered, dust-proof cardboard boxes without being cleaned - the INOX stays on the rails to protect them between races. The next month we build again... And we experience very few power issues during the year.

 

I hope that helps.

Andy Player

woodcote

1134 posts

Hi Eric - if you mean the C7024 power supply, then yes - it is the same as the P9300 and will safely plug into the second power socket on your ARC Pro. If the power supply is second hand, it is worth having the unit checked over by an electrician.

 

The C7042 is the Advanced Six-car powerbase and shouldn't be used in the same circuit as an ARC Pro unit. The two codes being so similar is ripe for confusion!

 

I hope that helps.

Andy Player

woodcote

1134 posts

Hi Ralph - welcome to the forum!

 

Before Scalextric produced Digital Plug Ready cars, there were a small number of cars that were chipped in the factory. Almost all the other cars produced - including all the classic Le Mans models - could be converted to digital using the C7005 (F1) or C7006 (saloon) 'retro-fit' chips. There were no classic Le Mans cars that I know of that were factory chipped. Nowadays, the C7005 chip is the only Scalextric 'retro fit' chip available and it is a fairly straight-forward job to convert any Scalextric car - requiring basic soldering skills.

 

Looking through the old catalogues, there are a lot of Scalextric models of cars that raced at Le Mans in 1966 and 1967. Starting with the most recent...

 

  • C4031 Ford GT MkIV #4 Hulme/Ruby 1967 (DPR)
  • C3951 Ford GT MkIV #3 Andretti/Bianchi 1967 (DPR)
  • C3893A Ford GT MkIV #1 Gurney/Foyt 1967 (DPR) part of twin pack with 2017 Ford GT GTE
  • C3630 Ford GT40 Scuderia Filipinetti #14 1966 (DPR)
  • C3533 Ford GT40 Rindt/Ireland #12 1966 (DPR)
  • C3315 Ford GT40 Ligier/Grossman #15 (non-DPR)
  • C3097 Ford GT MkII Andretti/Bianchi #6 1966 (non-DPR)
  • C3028 Ferrari 412P Attwood/Courage #23 1967 (non-DPR)
  • C3026 Ford GT MkII Donohue/Hawkins #4 1966 (non-DPR)
  • C2918 Ferrari 412P Rodriguez/Barghetti #25 1967 (non-DPR)
  • C2917 Ford GT MkII Hill/Muir #7 1966 (non-DPR)
  • C2683A Ford GT MkII Whitmore/Gardner #8 1966 (non-DPR)
  • C2642 Ferrari 330 P4 Mairesse/Beurlys #24 1967 (non-DPR)
  • C2641 Ferrari 330 P4 Scarfiotti/Parkes #21 1967 (non-DPR)
  • C2578A Ford GT40 Revson/Scott #59 1966 (non-DPR)
  • C2529A Le Mans 1966 1-2-3 weathered triple pack (non-DPR)
  • C2509 Ford GT MkII Gurney/Grant #3 1966 (non-DPR)
  • C2465A Ford GT MkII Bucknum/Hutcherson #5 1966 (non-DPR)
  • C2464A Ford GT MkII Miles/Hulme #1 1966 (non-DPR)
  • C2463A Ford GT MkII Amon/McLaren #2 1966 (non-DPR)

 

I'm pretty sure that is all the 1966 and 67 Le Mans models that Scalextric have produced in recent years. There are a few gaps that could be filled - the Chaparral 2F that Scalextric produced did not appear as either of the two 1967 Le Mans cars - the 2F was DPR. A DIY re-livery would be possible. The yellow #2 McLaren/Donohue MkIV from 1967 has not been released yet (although the yellow Sebring winner has). The 1967 MkIIBs are a different shape to the 1966 cars and I suspect Ford would want new tooling to be produced for an accurate model. Looking through the entry lists, there are a couple more GT40 (MkI) cars from 66 and 67. The Gulf cars from 1968 and 1969 are all available as DPR models. Finally, there are a couple more Ferrari 330 P4 and 412Ps that could be done - the #19 factory car and #22 Filipinetti car from 1967.

 

I hope that's useful to plan your grid. It was fun looking back through the fabulous classic Le Mans models Scalextric have produced.

Andy Player

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