M Menu
b 0 Items s

COVID-19 UPDATE: Our web shop currently remains open to customers. We are constantly reviewing this in light of government advice and in discussion with our fulfilment partners. However, delays in local delivery may occur which are outside of our control - we apologise in advance for this.


Woodcote

Signature: Andy Player

All Posts

woodcote

1138 posts

Hi Milkman rob.

 

The lane changers will only 'flip' open or closed when the sensor is triggered by the Infra-Red LED of a digital chip. When a digital car passes the sensor, it will either open or close the flipper, depending whether the lane-change button on the controller is pressed or not.

 

Unexpected lane changes can happen if you are following a car too close when it lane changes (the flipper doesn't have time to re-set) or if the flipper is open and the LED fails to trigger the sensor to close the flipper. The first issue is solved by hanging back from the car in front by six-inches or so. The second issue might be because the lane changer is immediately after a corner and the car is not straight; the sensor in the lane changer is dirty (give it a blow and/or a wipe with a clean cotton bud); or the LED in the car is dirty (cotton bud) or damaged (try another car or chip).

 

To diagnose the problem, I'd suggest trying different cars and manually push the car over the sensor and see if the flipper moves. It might also be worth trying different controllers. It is just possible that the lane change button is a bit glitchy? One final thing to consider is power... The lane changers are powered from the track, so the track connections do need to be good and - on a long track - power taps are necessary. Is the problem lane changer a long way from the powerbase?  Depending on what digital powerbase you are using, you might also be on marginal power - one P9300 power supply will run three cars, two are required for four to six. Although the lane changers only draw a small amount of power for a split second, it might still be a factor.

 

I hope that helps.

Andy Player

woodcote

1138 posts

Hi Daryl. I am guessing you have tried different cars and controllers in the 'dead' lane with the same result? And tried the powerbase separate from the rest of the track. That would eliminate whether it might be a car, controller or track issue. I'd also swap round the two transformers and move the switches on the powerbase -  I think you have the older Scalextric Sport analogue powerbase? See if any changes can make the 'dead' lane work through the powerbase.

 

If all those changes don't make any difference, then there is an issue in the powerbase. There could be a short-circuit in the powerbase - try squeezing both controllers and see if the 'good' lane stops working. If so, check there is no metal debris in the slot of the 'dead' lane. You could also take the bottom plate off the powerbase (disconnect from the transformers first) and see if you can see any loose wires or any damage.

 

I hope something there helps. Do let us know.

Andy Player

woodcote

1138 posts

Hi Dave. That's the older system - it's not on the 'new' set list, has vertical rails and the track connections don't look like those in the opening post of this thread.

 

I guess you have a choice:

 

  1. Keep the old-style set and use the tips here: https://www.scalextric.com/uk-en/forum/tips-for-getting-the-most-out-of-micro-scalextric/?p=1 to get the most out of it. There are plenty of old-style sets and cars available to extend your set, mostly on eBay.
  2. Return your old-style set and start again with the new 9-volt 'second generation' Micro Scalextric system. All the compatible sets and accessories are listed in this thread. Plenty more products are planned for the future and the new range is good value.

 

In my opinion, the new system is vastly superior. For anyone starting out, I'd recommend the new system.

 

I hope that helps.

Andy Player

woodcote

1138 posts

Thanks for posting the pictures Iain - your questions are answered here: https://www.scalextric.com/uk-en/forum/trackbusters-1984-30539/

Andy Player

woodcote

1138 posts

Hi Dave - welcome to the forum!

 

The 'new' track system was first released in May/June 2019. It is the system described in this thread. The 'original' version - produced between 1995 and summer 2018 - is not compatible with the new track system. The most obvious difference is that the rails on the new track are flat and the on the older track the rails stand vertically. The new track system is 9-Volts rather than the old 18-Volts. Both the mains and battery-powered sets run at 9-Volts.

 

The updated list of the 'new' version 9-Volt Micro and My First Scalextric sets is as follows:

 

2019 sets

G1150M - My First Scalextric

G1140M - My First Scalextric Looney Tunes (Daffy Duck vs Bugs Bunny)

G1143M - Micro Scalextric Justice League (Superman vs Batman)

G1142M - Micro Scalextric Wacky Races (Mean Machine vs Turbo Terrific)

G1149M - Micro Scalextric Law Enforcer

Aldi exclusive - Micro Scalextric City Collision

Lidl exclusive - Micro Scalextric Rocket Raiders

Lidl exclusive - Micro Scalextric Arctic Assault

 

2020 sets

G1141 - My First Scalextric Looney Tunes Battery Powered Set (Daffy Duck vs Bugs Bunny)

G1154M - My First Scalextric (Battery powered) - due Summer 2020

G1155M - Micro Scalextric Batman vs Joker (Battery powered) - due Summer 2020

G1160M - Micro Scalextric Ryan's Police Chase (Battery powered) - due Summer 2020

G1162M - Micro Scalextric James Bond - No Time To Die (Battery powered) - due Summer 2020

 

 

There are also four Micro Scalextric accessory packs in the 2020 Scalextric catalogue:

 

G8043 - Micro Scalextric Mains Powered Track Piece (UK only)

G8045 - Micro Scalextric Track Extension Pack - Straights & Curves

G8046 - Micro Scalextric Track Extension Pack - Stunt Loop

G8047 - Micro Scalextric Spare Guide Pack (8 guides and braids, plus one screw)

Andy Player

woodcote

1138 posts

Hi King Steuie - thanks for posting the pictures.

 

From left to right you have:

 

  1. Aurora/Tomy AFX
  2. Marchon MR-1 (also sold as Scalextric Micro MR-1 between 1994 and 1997) and
  3. Tyco (also included in Mattel sets)

 

Marchon MR-1 and Tyco/Mattel lane spacing is almost identical. Aurora/Tomy AFX is narrower. Adapters are available for Tomy to Tyco track. There is no adapter from Marchon MR-1 to either Tomy or Tyco that I am aware of, but - as Andy P suggested - a DIY adapter is going to be possible with Tyco and Marchon because of the near-identical spacing.

 

I hope that helps.

Andy Player

woodcote

1138 posts

Hi Cav Scout - welcome to the forum!

 

The design of the ARC Pro powerbase means that a track layout is limited to two lanes over the powerbase - if laps are to be counted on all lanes. That does mean 90% of a layout could be 4-lane (or 6 or 8-lane), but over the powerbase, it must squeeze back down to two. That is not ideal for racing.

 

Personally, I much prefer just two lanes for digital racing. It makes a very realistic road course - usually with one lane through a corner being the preferred 'racing line'. Overtaking becomes an art, requiring patience and skill - as it does in real racing.

 

On a real oval, there are usually two grooves - sometimes cars might go 'three-wide' on a re-start, but that is rare. In a real Nascar race - or at a local short track - there will be 20-40 cars on track and drivers must negotiate their way through traffic. Contact happens - rubbin' is racing. So I think for six-car digital oval racing, two lanes also makes sense.

 

If you have a 20ft by 20ft space and you want to build an oval, I would suggest you try building a few different two-lane ovals with different corner radii. See what is most enjoyable to race on - bigger is not necessarily better. You might then decide your project should be flexible - a permanent main straight with pit lane, grandstands etc, but with the option of a paperclip-style oval (Bristol, Martinsville), a longer rectangle (Indianapolis), a triangle (Pocono) or tri-oval (Charlotte, Daytona etc). You would also have the option of a road course. With Scalextric track, you do not have to commit to one permanent design. You could create a whole Nascar season in that 20 x 20ft space with all the challenges of the different circuits. That might keep the racing fresh and exciting.

 

I hope that answers your question and gives you some ideas.

Andy Player

woodcote

1138 posts

Hi DGKtech - welcome to the forum!

 

The recommended second power supply is another Hornby C7033 unit for the US (C7024 or P9300 in the UK, C7038 in Australia and C7032 in mainland Europe).

 

An alternative that some enthusiasts choose is the Toshiba-clone 15V 5A power supply PA3469U1ACA. Pop that code into a search and you should come up with something like "Laptop Adapter Charger for TOSHIBA".

 

I have successfully used my two Toshiba-clone power supplies with both my C7042 Advanced Six-Car Powerbase (APB) and ARC Pro.

 

If you are going for the Toshiba-clones, I've read that it is sensible not to mix them with the Scalextric models on the APB or ARC Pro - which both have two sockets. Either use 2 x Toshibas or 2 x Scalextric.

 

I hope that helps.

Andy Player

woodcote

1138 posts

Hi SNB1973 - welcome to the forum!

 

Those 1980s Think Tank, Fuel Tank and Sound Track were amazing. Sadly, I never had them myself, but absolutely loved the look of them in the Scalextric catalogue. If everything still works, you have a fabulous 1980s classic retro Scalextric set-up. I'm not sure I would change it. In a pre-personal computer era, those modules provided many of the features of modern-day race management systems like App Race Control.

 

The track you have is the old-style 'Classic' track. It was replaced by the Scalextric Sport track system around the turn of the millennium. All the subsequent sets - including digital - use Sport track. This gives better electrical connectivity, has a less grippy road surface and a deeper slot. Cars from the past ten years have a deeper guide, so can bottom-use on the older Classic track (nothing a little sanding of the guide doesn't solve), but otherwise the newer cars (and most other manufacturers' cars) will work fine on the older Classic track.

 

As for designing the track, the original Scalextric 101 Circuits booklet contains some great plans and can be found here: https://slotracer.online/library/scalextric/scalextric-101-circuits.html

 

To fit Silverstone into your space, you may need to squash it a bit. I think the best way is always to use actual track pieces to see what fits - but using track design software like Ultimate Racer 3.0 can be very useful.

 

Finally, some info abut ARC Pro and digital. This is a system where you can run up to six cars on two lanes, with lane changing and a separate pit lane. Cars must be fitted with a digital chip. ARC Pro also has a traditional one-car-per-lane analogue mode for running non-digital cars. Although it is possible to use a mix of Classic track, Sport track and Scalextric Sport digital track pieces (lane changers etc), the older track can get a little glitchy. The digital command signal is carried in the track rails, so any connectivity issues could cause problems with the digital cars. It is usually best to swap to Scalextric Sport to build a digital track.

 

As I said before, I would be tempted to stick - at least to begin with - to your original Classic track and all the wonderful 1980s electronic modules. I think you will have a fabulous retro Scalextric fest! All the 80s cars are still available second-hand and - if you need to add more track - Classic track (make sure it's in very good condition) is available and cheap. Or you could get a C8222 Sport to Classic adapter and add new Sport track pieces. If you wanted to try ARC Pro digital at some point, maybe get the entry-level ARC Pro Le Mans 24 hour set, have a play and see if it adds more to the Scalextric experience than you have already.

 

Have fun!

Andy Player

woodcote

1138 posts

Hi Phil. I have never had a problem like this with previous versions of the app on my iOS devices. However I do have a very similar issue on my iPad 9.7 (2017) running iOS 13.3.1 with the latest version (v2.5 B24) of the app.

 

I do not get a blank white box. When I hit Options and Share Results at race end (or Options in race Results - via More Stats), I get a black and grey line just below the screen header - and no sharing options pop-up screen. I deleted the app and tested a fresh install - and got the same bug. That is always worth doing, just in case of a faulty install.

 

I will be reporting this possible bug to the Scalextric team by email, together with screen grabs. Perhaps you could do the same via the Scalextric Customer Service link (details right or below)?

 

Using app version v2.4.3 B23 on my iPhone 4s, I get the share options fine. The options available depend on what apps are installed on the device and whether they are toggled on or off in the ARC app. To do this, choose 'More' which gives you a list of apps available and the choice to toggle them on or off.

 

I hope that helps.

Andy Player

Forum Rules

  • The Scalextric Forum is intended for discussion of slot-car racing. Primarily, a place for newcomers to ask questions and seek assistance from like-minded individuals, the Scalextric Forum offers users the chance to join an active and friendly community.
  • Discussion of other slot-car brands is allowed, however, active promotion or advertising of our competitors is not permitted.
  • Please keep in mind that the Scalextric Forum is a publicly viewable space and you should never post personal information (including email addresses).
  • While every effort is made to contact you before any censorship, we reserve the right to amend or remove any content without explanation.
  • All customer service enquiries should be directed to Scalextric Customer Services.

Useful Links

Forum Guidelines



Membership Restricted Product