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Alan_west

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alan_west

26 posts

It's great to see the new liveries. On the BMW, please get the updated model though - surely it would be better to wait a bit than to use a model that was replaced in 2015 on the road and on the track 2016. 

alan_west

26 posts

Hi Wingfoot, I use a C7042 and have 2 large LCD screens displaying race details and can switch between analogue & digital easily. However, I use a 3rd party race management system (SSDC - others are available) that enables me to do this. I suggest you go onto the SSDC website and check it out. All you will need is a data cable to connect the powerbase to a laptop, download the latest version and update the firmware on your powerbase. Instructions are all on the website. The cost of the software is tiny. In my opinion, this has made an enormous difference to slot racing. I have held a number of races and having this software really 'makes' the race - from simply arranging races, programming cars, simulated fuel use, changing throttle mappings, setting up pace cars....the list goes on. 

alan_west

26 posts

Hi,

Most cars (even F1) can be chipped. Use the slotcar forum to start on easy conversions and build your skills. Keep the components on the chip isolated from metal parts (on a really tight conversion, a small bit of insulating tape on teh side of a motor may do the trick). For a small saloon (eg mini) you may be happy with the chip sitting on the passenger seat. Always make sure the motor is in good condition and runs freely.

alan_west

26 posts

Hi,

I have spent years (a couple more to go) converting to digital. I have always used a digital track that ensures that integrity of 2 lanes can be maintained and have easily altered corner lange changers as suggested by GORP. The single biggest difference I have found to make the whole switching backwards and forwards digital to analogue is using the SSDC race program (you will need to update firmware on the 6 car powerbase - instructions are available on SSDC website). This makes it real easy to run races in both formats without the need to have 2 separate tracks - and you can have a physically separate pit lane for those cars you have converted.

alan_west

26 posts

My one is not DPR. I used a single seater retro fit chip C7005 to convert to digital. It was one of the more difficult conversions - but, can be done.

alan_west

26 posts

They are - and run on 'Classic' track better than many other brands. However, they do have different characteristics - personally I don't like the motors (they need more running in than any others and are slower) and the tyres are not so good as others. Their lights are excellent, although prone to 'blowing' on a Scalextric powered set up. Not so easy to convert to digital as some other makes. I've always been more keen on the rally cars they do....

alan_west

26 posts

I have indeed chipped 100s of cars, but none with a Johnson motor. Not keen on Slot It chips as there's few cars they fit. Really keen on knowing whether green wire goes to left or right pick up.

alan_west

26 posts

Hi,

Has anyone done any digital conversions of cars with Johnson (or older long open can motors)? Would be great to see pics of how the conversions have been achieved.

Thanks...in anticipation.

Alan

alan_west

26 posts

You will need to ensure that there is a small gap between the bearing and the wheel. I assume you have a belt driven example - I would recommend you check the belt tension before running as they deteriorate and under braking/acceleration can come off or even get tangled.

alan_west

26 posts

Suggest you check there are no obvious short circuits in the car - eg bare wires touching each other or the motor shell. Fix if so. Otherwise change the motor and fit a new chip. Check that it works in analogue mode first - ie car runs well without full load. I use a separate set up just to gently rev suspect motors in analogue mode that identifies potential issues.

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