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Andy P.

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Andy P.

1707 posts


Definitely contact customer care!

Thanks!

Andy P.

1707 posts


I am not too sure to be honest but maybe google has something?

Maybe post some pictures and we might be able to guess.

Spark Plug will be out soon and you can use that as a controller.

 

Andy P.

1707 posts


To your question 1: I have thought about this a few times. I have never done it but I was thinking if you affixed the track to something sturdy (plastic/acrylic/wood) you could then use a sanding wheel to cut it down.

My theory for affixing it first is you want to keep the slot width an lane space the same.

The main problem is the way classic track connects. Because it is levered into place you have to leave that area open on the bottom.

Personally I have replaced all my classic track with Sport except for the things that are not available in Sport like the Goodwood chicane.

To point 2: There is a post on here somewhere of a guy who has used two powerbases but I have no idea how that worked. Getting good connections and using "booster cables" running cables from the power base to the track that is farthest away.

Andy P.

1707 posts


How about opening up the one that works in comparing? :-)

Andy P.

1707 posts


Hi There,

Apologies, for some reason I overlooked this post.

The cross over curves will most certainly cause a crash.

There are generally 2 schools of thought.

One school is to put them at the beginning of the curve so that people are under maximum braking and once they have cleared the cross over they can accelerate out of the curve.

The other school is to put it at the end as the cars will be at their lowest speed allowing a possibility to brake even more and more importantly more time to react.

For the first school there is the argument that given the now out-of production digital curve changers required a half straight before them to work shows that Scalextric tends to think having them at the beginning of the curve is better.

My personally opinion is a hybrid: If you have the space put an R3 in front of the crossover or even better an R4 followed by an R3 and then the crossover.

Failing that put a 22.5° R2 in front and another after the cross over so that people have time to react and slow down.

Another option is putting a "side swipe" or squeeze track before the curve to force people to slow down.

This requires space for 2 full straights though...

I actually try to avoid the crossovers but they can be fun I do admit!

Andy P.

1707 posts


Thanks Chris99. You are correct. The plug should be taken out of the circuit before the direct to motor option is done..

Andy P.

1707 posts


Hi There,

Online auction sites, swap meets and I think there is a page called Scalextric-cars.co.uk that might have something like this.

Good luck..!

Andy P.

1707 posts


Hi There,

I am assuming you mean the calibration in ARC. If I am too presumptuous and you are referring to the C7042 digital powerbase though please let me know.

 

With ARC you have to always have a calibration speed set.  I think in the latest version of the app each car can have a calibration speed set to it and it is saved with the car. Otherwise before each race it has to be set which doesn't take too long.

Andy P.

1707 posts


I like the challenge of drinking enough wine to get that many corks...

Andy P.

1707 posts


Thread moved from Digital sub forum.

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