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Gorp

All Posts

gorp

834 posts

If you search the net, you will find dealers that have replacement tires with charts showing what car used on.

gorp

834 posts

Have not noticed this , where  digital is slower on digital than when same car is run on analog side of same powerbase , but could be result of all power used to operate the track as digital, such as lane changers.

gorp

834 posts

Sets have names and numbers.

So if neither provided you get general info.

 

Used track is most likely the current sport and not classic

Analog powerbase that can use 2 powerpacks ( 1 per lane), are better than any other.

Battery powered lapcounters are better than mechanical.

F1s are fast and fragile but come with standard motor , axle and gears.

(Vintage f1s are very fast and very fragile with smaller faster motor, and smaller axles and gears.)

They come with long wheelbase thus tighter corners can be difficult.

Modern F1s can be converted to digital with soldered in chipon older ones or with dpr with current models..

 

People seem to buy sets based on car styles they like, but toys are not equal.

Personally have picked up used sets , when  already knew how toy will perform and knew which sets to avoid.

If you like open wheel, suggest indy dallara over f1s because they are stronger and handle much better and 2 sets can be found.

(Sold off all scaly modern f1s and run indys instead,  that have  digitalized.)

gorp

834 posts

Andy,  couple months ago over  on general forum on a long topic about running pro and one on separate tracks on same table , posted about switching the dip switches on pro and discovered to my amazement that you need only re-id one controller to change them all.

( It was a long topic because my experience  on blue tooth was only with the pro so it was educational. )

Also there is no need to re-id any cars.

 

As for a test of pro, it should be plugged in elsewhere where there would be no blue tooth,  which actually might be a problem finding  today ( have no idea how far that actually transmits) .

Makes me wonder how any bluetooth product can function now with all devices available in homes.

 

As for just pro being defective,  my first advanced would not count, the replacement unit could not run analog properly, until tried arc pro mod on it ( thought if that did not help , my advanced was still junk but it worked and finally saw how nice advanced actually is ).

But all 3 pros ( 2 original and 1 updated) worked fine here with blue tooth and app.

gorp

834 posts

Since cannot see car and now too lazy to search the net to find missing details, will suggest general answers.

All magnets used should be rare earth and not the cheap junk that cost very little.

Try to avoid too much magnet because it will slow you down, ie car will stick when track is turned over.

 

If car has flat bottom, you can superglue magnet there , between motor and axle gear for inline  and before motor for sidewinder , as long as you have track clearance or it will fault the track.

 

When running digital, suggest even less magnet the better , in tandom with good replacement tires of silicone or urathane, which have different characteristics which you can find and read about on net.

Personally preferr silicones but urethanes have their fans too.

 

If toy does not have  bottom, stick mags on side of can but not on top or bottom, but do not overdue it.

 

 

gorp

834 posts

Since cannot see car and now too lazy to search the net to find missing details, will suggest general answers.

All magnets used should be rare earth and not the cheap crap that cost very little.

Try to avoid too much magnet because it will slow you down, ie car will stick when track is flipped over

 

If car has flat bottom, you can supperglue magnet there , between motor and axle gear for inline  and before motor for sidewinder , as long as you have track clearance or it will fault the track.

When running digital, suggest less magnet the better , in tandom with good replacement tires of silicone or urathane, which have different characteristics which you can find and read about on net.

Personally preferr silicones but urethanes have their fans too.

 

If toy does not have  bottom, stick mags on side of can but not on top or bottom and do not overdue it.

gorp

834 posts

C , believe McLaine is asking why arc pro cannot have pace car change lanes randomly like advanced.

Glad to see you are back. gorp

gorp

834 posts

It is a shame that in the hast to make exact scale vintage f1s, that you have produced a too fast ,fragile product, that are very difficult to chip, while selling a f1 dpr chip, that fits only modern day style cars.

 

Suggest you try the MRRC style from over 20 years ago with simple appearances allowing more interior for the f1 dpr and standard motor, axles, and gears,  which should work if you switched to 1/28 scale or more , but would fit scaly track still.

These would make a great low cost, sturdy racing class , in many colors, and body styles of lotus, cooper, brm, ferrari, honda , eagle, porsche and  mclaren.

 

Well thats what I would do if it was my company.

 

 

gorp

834 posts

Analog - no digital chips involved

 

See at top of page, shop, sets, analog, and scroll down.

Basic set with mechanical lap counter and nice controllers , similar to what you played with long ago.

If you have questions , ask here at analog subforum or check out help/advice at top of page.

Enjoy it !!!

gorp

834 posts

Golly, should have read this closer about magic running analog.

You should put info over on general forum to go along with video.

 

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