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Gorp

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gorp

608 posts

For decades have used small dose of vasoline on the 4 connecting tips of each piece when changing track design, which has always eliminated the need for track jumpers here.

Also occasionally use a light dose of tire cleaner (tiger milk brand at my local hobby store) on the guide brushes to keep rails clean,

after first cleaning and removing track grime from braids.

But always keep track covered when you are done playing.

Only shorts ever had on my track was caused by someone elses too low of magnet and a digital that got jammed in the lane (how that happened is beyond me).

gorp

608 posts

Yes Scalextric needs to make the shelby cobra daytona because the revell version had a designer that thought model should be a real car with a front motor throwing balance off so bad that it usually went straight off corners.

But what is urgently needed since last being produced by strombecker in the 60s is the Chaparral 2D.

The 2D won first euro championship race in modern times for the US.

It raced against the ford gt which is a stable in the Scalextric menu.

Then again maybe slotit will wise up first.

gorp

608 posts

The round 2 part guide has 2 thin pieces of wire attached.

They do break over time and have repaired them.

One that still works was with banding but expect it to fail.

The rest by soldering.

Never had guide problem with one piece guide.

New and improved may not be.

gorp

608 posts

It seems wire length is determined by scaly engineers to be the minimum length needed to reach the analog dpr connection.

They need to realize that using the dpr chip requires a slightly longer wire to reach a new dpr connection location.

Otherwise the solution is cutting and soldering 4 times to fix their design error.

Noticed this on chevy transam.

Since most of mine are not dpr cars,

when using the original chip in toys designed before digital age,

cannot expect scaly to have known this problem ahead of time.

gorp

608 posts

@gorp

forgot to add and it would not let me edit post

In all cases you must have a half straight or longer before changer

so that toy will be straight when it passes track eye.

 

gorp

608 posts

If is only toy not activating changer,

try cleaning led eye with breath and tissue.

Have had cars fail before due to track dirt and just needed cleaning.

And if happens with chip that you solder in,

push it out a little more and clean.

If changer fails with all the cars, clean it.

gorp

608 posts

The real problems with the 4 car powerbase are the lane changers and lap counter.

Both require power to operate and will reduce toy usage to maximum of 3.

Three cars is ok though but sport track appears to conduct better than the old track,

which is also shallower.

Have seldom used jumpers on even large tracks

but do use light vasoline on the rail connectors.

Always keep track flat and clean,

mine is always covered when not using.

So to sum up, 4 car base will work with couple of changers when running 3 cars,

but not more.

However if later you switch to whatever 6 car base is available,

you can use 4 car base off track to fast id  chip.

Four car bases can be had cheaply on net but power supply may cost retail.

Then with current advanced 6 car base you will only need to purchase 1 more power supply.

Personally you might want to build a separate smaller digital setup to see if you like it

before switching big track to it.

 

gorp

608 posts

Considered challenger best scaly product of the 00s.  

So if you are using a plug instead of hand control,

remove it and plug in a hand controller.

Set challenger using full on.

Then rubberband controller at a lesser speed to run.

Adjust speed to handling desired.

Suggest you also use silicones on this car.

Usually get beat by challenger if toy racing it has less downforce.

Even converted one to digital but was not worth the effort.

Rubberband digital way back then to practice passing.

Good luck and enjoy challenger.

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