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SArc Pro analog ?

Ok so here it is , I have had the ARC AIR system for over a year and have not been able to race my cars on it. My cars in random points stop for no reason and a few seconds later start again. I have been absolutely able to rule out any problem with a short or shorts.  My cars are mostly Slotit and Ninco. I also have 6 or 8 Scalextric and Fly and a few NSR. I don't have any digital cars.  My track is Ninco with the appropriate Scalextric track adapters.

About a month or so ago someone on this forum suggested that i get a more powerful transformer, which I did (P9303) ARC PRO digital transformer. I was excited and just knew that this was the solution. Well it didn't work. So it was also recommended that I should try the ARC PRO power base, because you can plug two transformers into it and would also run my analog cars. Here it is, so when I installed the arc pro power base and plugged in......... my car hums like I'm slightly squeezing the controller But moves nowhere. Same when using a different car,different lane, both transformers etc.

saw somewhere that you can put this in analog mode . How? Also what are some other suggestions. Thx in advance.

woodcote

802 posts

Hi Woodycolorado

 

The analogue/digital switch is on the left side of the powerbase. By your description, the base is currently in digital mode - that's how non-chipped cars will behave with AC current. In analogue mode, the ARC Pro powerbase with behave like an ARC Air powerbase and will launch the ARC Air features of the app. You will also get a high-pitched whistle from some cars' motors in analogue mode - that is normal and most people get used to it.

 

However, I do think you need to do some diagnostics on why you are getting the cut-outs - there is a chance they will continue with the new powerbase. If your Fly and Scaletric cars were working fine with the ARC Air powerbase, but the Ninco, Slot.it and NSR cars weren't, then the upgrade to the more powerful (4 amp) power supply would be a good call. It has worked for other forum users.

 

So, are all the cars - or just some - getting the cut-outs? Are they truly random, or are they clustered around certain points on the layout? Do they ever happen near the power base or are they always further away? How long is your layout and do you have any power taps / jumpers? And the adapters are just around the powerbase - so powerbase > Sport/Classic adapter > SCX/Ninco adapter > Ninco track? I am not an expert with Ninco track, but you have checked all the connections are tight and conductivity is good around the layout (using a volt meter to check for voltage drop)? All that will be useful to know and then we can go from there.

Blagard-01

173 posts

Regards the random stops/starts in analogue, that is very much the sort of thing you get when there are issues with track to track connection. One easy way to test you track is to make one disconnection in the track to break the loop so to speak. Power booster leads should also be removed while checking the track for bad connections.  Then check that power is getting to every rail on every piece of track. With the one deliberate break in the track, power cannot hop around a bad connection.

 

It takes two breaks in the circuit power to stop a car and by introducing the one you can find any that are there all the time. The occassional breaks due a bit of track movement are harder to locate.

Andy P.

1707 posts


Community Moderator

Well, well , well, 

THANK YOU woodcote!!!!!!

its all fixed And I was right it was something wrong with the ARC AIR powerbase NOT a short or power break in my track. I started off by describing that I had absolutely eliminated those problems maybe next time I will tell you how I was able to strike that from being an issue. Before I had the ARC AIR system I had the NINCO , wiico wireless system.  So after I had completely resurfaced my track and completely vacuumed and tediously washed each piece. After I put 4 jumpers in it,and basically exhausted every single idea that was suggested . I put back in the wiico system back and it ran flawlessly. Not just once but every time I tried it again. I switched systems for all of the great features of the ARC systems, Pace Car, better feedback in the controller and more Lap information and also the size of the lap counter, aka my iPad . I was just frustrated that I couldn't get it to work. Thank you woodcote for pointing out the "teeny weeny teeny tiny little switch!!  Makes me feel like a complete idiot for not seeing it or being aware of it before,

and Andy I knew it wasn't the track....

Now after over a year the Puzzle of my track has been solved and I can start racing again. Need to find out what's wrong with the ARC AIR power base

Andy P.

1707 posts


Community Moderator

Contact customer care at the right. They should be able to help out.

Thanks Andy , but I went down that path a year ago they sent me a replacement ARC AIR power base and I still had the problem. They were very helpful and I appreciate everything they did. But the problem  still exists, with the ARC AIR product.

thx for everyone's help.

Dr_C

298 posts

Hi Woodycolorado,

 

So you have sorted the problem with the ARC PRO... but you are still getting power interuptions with the ARC AIR?

 

Do the problems occur when you race two standard Scalextric analog cars against each other? The ARC AIR has a separate current sensor for each lane so if either car is drawing too much current... I believe the power shuts down. Adding a larger transformer might give more even power... but the current sensors will still trip at the same current value. Of thecars you mention you own, the Scalextric ones are likely to run with the lowest current... do two Scalextric cars racing against each other cause the problems you mentioned earlier?

 

C

"Have I sorted out the problem with the ARC PRO" ? Yes and no.

The problem only exists with the ARC AIR powerbase, and yes I have. 

I Started out with the ARC AIR , which you Dr. C in the previous entry has finally pointed out basically that you can't run some analog cars on without interruption because they draw to much current. I think that you've perfectly identified the problem. Please see previous Dr_C post.

 

Cant think of more than one time that my scalextric cars randomly stopped and the started a few seconds later. So to answer the question, I had to upgrade to the ARC PRO , and switch it to analog mode to eliminate the problem. It was thought that by upgrading to the ARC PRO I would be able to plug in 2 power supply's and overcome a power shortage.  However it turns out that just the one 15v 4 amp power supply is needed, SCALEXTRIC  US part # P9303, Because the ARC AIR has protection limits that trip when enough power is being used by cars that draw more power...... SLOTIT ,  NSR.

  Need to thank Oliver with Professor Motor ( in the US ) for his customer service and help. He's been very patient and eager to help solve this issue for me. 

In my opinion , if your interest in slot car racing is Analog or Digital both types of cars work best with the ARC PRO system Don't even bother with the ARC AIR.... Go directly to ARC PRO and don't forget to switch it to analog...... teeny tiny switch on left side of power base.

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