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SARC Pro - Curved Lane Changer Mod

Blagard-01

173 posts

First of all there is a limit on the number of images you can upload in a single post so I combined mine in "Paint" to make one image. Then you write your post and upload you image using the icon as image below

Dr_C

296 posts

Now finished a couple of alternative versions of the curved lane changer approach... each version uses the 10mm dead spots mentioned earlier. Still testing...

1/ similar to blagard-01’s excellent ‘double dead spots‘ approach but modified using the rail ‘remove-cut-and-replace’ technique described earlier in this thread.

2/ introduction of a single 10mm dead spot alongside the output flipper (wedge) - but this can only be used for variants where this wedge is fixed in position (otherwise shorts would result).

Time taken to modify two curved lane changers was a total of approx 1 hr i.e 1/2 hr per changer using dremmel, hand file, 5 mins epoxy and attachment of one jumper wire.

Photos and diagrams to follow - slightly delayed because I want to compare and contrast the two alternative versions... :-)

edteach3r

2 posts

I have been following these discussions with great interest as I have 5 of these curved lane changers in my track.  Despite having used SSDC with my C7042 6-car powerbase successfully (digital only), yesterday I decided to pick up an ARC Pro Upgrade Kit for a second, smaller, track I am planning to build ... a scaled-down version of Goodwood :)

I am hoping to undertake the necessary mods on two of my curved lane changers so I can use ARC PRO in both digital and analogue modes.  None of my curved lane changers have been adapted for analogue use with C7042.  While I am quite comfortable with diy projects around the home, I am by no means adept with electricity. Hence, the posts above have required very careful, repeated, reading! 

Before I undertake the surgery required, I was hoping that someone might have a step-by-step process for dummies like me.  My Dremel awaits ... Thank you very much in advance.  Ed

gorp

611 posts

dummies guide to arc pro used for both digital and analog :

use only straight dual changers

Sealevel

15 posts

@Dr_C

I just modified a track section to introduce a dead spot... got a very neat result by lifting the rail then cutting with a dremmel. I cut out a 10mm section then filed each remaining piece back by 1mm then re-assembled all three pieces... this creates... track then 1mm gap then 10mm track with dead spot then another 1mm gap then the remaining section of track. This looks very tidy, isolates the track and creates a nice flush surface for the brushes to ride over... this approach should work very well alongside the fixed output flipper/wedge as per above discussion...

Would you post a top side picture to explain what you mean?  I think that would help us understand.  Thanks for sharing!

Sealevel

15 posts

Just read through this forum again and now understand the "1mm-10mm-1mm" concept.  Pictures will still help I am sure.  Options A, B, and C are still a bit confusing, but to say separate power to middle lane from lanes 1 and 2 (so they are not connected) seems easier to understand.  Really looking forward to how the ARC Pro can be separated from the track so that it can be swapped with the APB (C7042) by just plugging in the PB of choice.... a different topic for a different thread I am sure.  Thanks to all for sharing!

Blagard-01

173 posts

To summerise what may be the neatest way. Isolate the lane on the exit by snipping the ribbon as yellow line. Introduce a dead spot as the blacked bit of rail. Solder a wire to maintain rail continuity as the red link

 

Dr_C

296 posts

And another similar photo... please only use this mod if the exit flipper/wedge is 'fixed' rather than floating type.

Please note the double cut in front of the little mini!

gorp

611 posts

do you actually mean only the dead spot  of a fixed exit of this part of blagard's mod ?

Dr_C

296 posts

Hi Gorp, this is a very good question - thank you for seeking clarification on this point...

 

So, there are two main variants of the curved lane changer mod as introduced within this thread. The first requires two 10mm dead spots to be formed, side-by-side, at some point in the changing lane section of the track piece (please see blagard-01’s first set of photos on this thread). This ‘side-by-side‘ approach will work with all types of lane changers regardless of whether the exit flipper/wedge is ‘floating‘ type (pre circa 2005 production) or the later ‘fixed‘ type.

 

If the exit wedge is of the later ‘fixed‘ type (i.e. locked firmly in a centred and fixed position usind a small locking pin on the underside) then the simplified ‘single-sided’ variant can used as per the later more recent photos shared in this Thread. These later photos clearly show the correct positioning of 10mm single dead spot and, as you will see, blagard-01’s photos are almost identical to mine in this regard.

 

I hope this explanation is helpful :-)

 

C

 

This leaves one further question... if using the ‘side-by-side‘ variant - where is it best to location for the dead spots? 

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