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SInline motors dieing quickly

jimjgsr

9 posts

I'm having a problem with my cars with inline motors dieing after a few months.The two that have died, C3210 & C3625 died a week apart both were chipped with C8515 chips and had front and rear lights and both were purchased roughly 6 months ago.My track is 2 C1330T Platinum sets and extra sport digital track for about 72-75 ft. of track on an 8'x12' area.All of my cars including the 12 cars from the set were excessively covered with oil so I took them apart and wiped out as much excess as possible and to put chips into the cars that did not have them because the wires are really short they are extremely difficult to chip.All of my cars with sidewinder motors with or without lights are still running great. So I'm wondering if it is because of the inline motors. The C3210 with chip still in it the lights come on but does not run,the C3625 no lights and does not run, so I took the chip out put in the non digital hatch and the lights will come on but does not run so I believe the chip died as well.I cannot solder new motors in because I suffered a brain shear injury that causes hand tremors.I just recently purchased several more cars but I'm worried they will not last long either if they are inline motors as well.If anyone has experienced the same or similar I would be grateful for any tips or suggestions just try and keep it simple because I have trouble with my comprehension at times . I tried to post earlier with pictures but I don't think I was successful.Thanks

Andy P.

578 posts


Community Moderator

Hi There,

I don't see those cars listed on the website any more so they might be a few years old (I think the Cortina came out in 2011 and the BMW Z4 in 2015 which isn't terribly old..)

Excessive oil is just as bad as no oil so while you did the right thing of cleaning them if the oil got to the accumulators the motors may be totally gunked inside.

If you purchased them from Hornby I am sure they can help you out. Even if you did not buy them from Hornby directly try contacting customer care. (link at the right)

Otherwise try a local club or model shop if possible. Replacing motors is not difficult if you have the tools and skills (and not the extenuating circumstances you have).

Maybe about user can help you here or you can try the slotforum.com as there are many lovely folks there that may be local and can help.

Good luck!

jimjgsr

9 posts

Hi Andy,

Thank you for replying. I wanted sure that I was not creating the problem by wiping out the excess lubrication or if it might be related to the inline motors since they were both of that type of set up, The stockist I purchased the Cortina from have just recently retired and closed shop , but another stockist , Bruce of Green Sales / Cincyslots was more than willing to so if he can repair it . I had just shipped the Cortina to him when my BMW quit working so I was inquiring if it was a common problem with this type , operator error on my part , or just coincidence.Even though the cars not working is a bummer I'm am glad to have met such nice people in the slot car world such as yourself and Bruce. Thanks again and I will be checking out slotforum.com .Have a wonderful day. Jim

Andy P.

578 posts


Community Moderator

Let us know when you find out more!

jimjgsr

9 posts

Good news . My BMW lives again not sure why but I suspect a piece of braid filament may have made a flash contact across the chip. The car runs again but it is back to the default setting to the green controller instead of the white one I programed it to . I have several new chips coming so I'll be replacing it just to be sure.

gorp

61 posts

You do understand that if the chip is working , all you have to do to go from your green controller back to white

controller is to reprogram it again.

The changable color top of the controller does not matter because you are programming to a port on the powerbase.

Loss of car id can occur from hard crashes and loose or improperly assembled round guides.

jimjgsr

9 posts

Hi gorp , Thanks for the tip to check the gude assembly . I'm just changing the chip to be safe becuase even though it is working it will only register lap times on one lane . Thanks Jim

gorp

61 posts

@jimjgsr

Hi gorp , Thanks for the tip to check the gude assembly . I'm just changing the chip to be safe becuase even though it is working it will only register lap times on one lane . Thanks Jim

It is NOT the chip.

It is the the lap counter unless your other cars count on the bad lane.

If they do not work on it, try cleaning the eye on that lane.

My first apb was dead on one lane so scaly replaced it.

Of course replacement counted but is bear to get both lanes of analog to run in 1 direction only.

Back to problem - if other cars count but yours will not, try cleaning car eye.

If dpr have no other solution but if soldered in, the eye may be up in body too high or to the side.

Oh forgot to ask first - You do have at least 1/2 straight before lap counter so car can pass headed straight and not traveling sideways out of a curve ?

If no, then fix your track layout.

jimjgsr

9 posts

I tried the suspect chip in all my cars and cleaned the eye, and even tried it on my other APB and controllers with same results , put in new chip no problems and works as should. Oh and I have full straight sections in front of all my lane changers. Had some feedback from others on different forums that static shock or just the chip getting to warm can make them act weird .

Andy P.

578 posts


Community Moderator

There is a go on slotforum.com or maybe slotcar illustrated that an repair most chips.... I think he is US based.

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