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SProblem with ARC Pro and curved lane changers

Dr_C

298 posts

The above photo is of a digitally converted Scalextric mini... imagine the co-driver’s calls as the mini passes the ARC PRO power base when driving on an Option C configured track (see all posts above)...

“dead spot ahead - step on gas”

”left 90 turn ahead - exit right lane”

So just to confirm... down on the track Option C works a treat... honestly!

Dr_C

298 posts

So just to sum up then to clarify my so called ‘Option C’...

While the ARC PRO is absolutely awesome straight out of the box - with amazing functionality in both digital and analog configurations (simply by throwing a small switch on the side of the base), a few minor compatibility issues have been observed by the early adopters. Not much of a problem... and there is a range of solutions as per this thread.

The observed issue is that old curved lane changers, some digital counters and any 2-into-1 chicaine features (if they cause primary lanes1 and 2 to become electrically connected)... result in the current production version of the ARC PRO (2017) going into SAFE mode. The simple answer is to remove these track components... and then to get on enjoying the new power base in both digital and analog modes.

The reason for the above issue appears to stem from a design trade-off which causes a reversal of the signal polarities (in digital mode) for lanes 1 and 2 with respect to each other. This is of no consequence in digital mode unless the two lanes become ‘bridged‘ i.e. electrically interconnected. There is no issue whatsover in analog mode where (of course) the cars in both lanes move in the same direction as both expected and required!

But... if you do want to keep those old (disconinued) curved changers on track (as I do) then there are three options to consider. All of these are now proven effective.

Option A: modify the track wiring inside the ARC PRO (not recommended likely to void warranty).

Option B: modify all the above track parts, for example modifying each curved lane changer as described by blagard-01 in the link shared in an earlier post on this thread.

Option C: modify two 1/4 length straights by creating a 10mm dead spot in one of the lanes then cross wire underneath.

======= lane1

===X=== lane 2

X marks location of the dead spot and also shows the required cross-wiring (for underneath).

using Option C in practice..

1/ for absolute full digital compatibility (I believe) with all SSD track parts past and present ... insert these modified track parts on both sides of the ARC PRO. Then enjoy digital mode!

2/ for full analog compatibility... simply replace the modified 1/4 straights with standard ones... then enjoy analog mode!

QED

 

gorp

611 posts

tired of explaining why your op C2 explanation will not work , as it appears obviously that you have been told it would by someone who just wanted to sell arc pro, warts and all

so now suggesting you ask Riko to explain it to you

please try to pay attention

Dr_C

298 posts

No worries - and meanwhile I appreciate the good sense of humour, and good sense of irony, brought together in typing the post directly above this one.

Blagard-01

173 posts

It seems to me C would work. although Dr_C explanation could be clearer so a sketch below shows what he is saying. Use modified 1/4 ers for Digital and  unmodified for Analogue. However please note Analogue still requires all other limitations to apply.

gorp

611 posts

thank you Blagard for adding the last sentence

Dr_C

298 posts

Thanks both - yes been a bit busy on several fronts... just learned how to post photos (great progress for a newbie like me). I’ll put up another photo and then another diagram (big thanks blagard-01 for helping with this) and then ...  (hopefully) that will be option C fully covered. My 1/4 length modified track parts are now ready for endurance testing over the festive season!!! Thanks to those who have formed a critical review panel for this option... I know it has absorbed quite a bit of your time - thank you!

And, just added jumpers to implement Options B and C using a soldering iron but without risk of melting the plastic track (idea copied directly from Scalextric actually so not new at all) ... more of a simple and hopefully useful tip... :-)

gorp

611 posts

just using scaly jumpers eliminates the c soldering

 

Blagard

You really need to get your curve changer solution out there before it gets buried under all these distractions.

Slot car illustrated will protect it and slot forum leaders are around.

Glad and gem are saved there too.

gorp

Dr_C

298 posts

No worries... it’s likely to be Monday before I upload more photos of my track based trials...

maxbeat

2 posts

hello to all sorry my English but I'm Italian (Sardinia). I wonder if you change the track as DR_C says how will the track with 6 cars go? then it will be useless to put the second power supply and I think it will be impossible to play with more than 4 machines because it is powered only one track is this right?

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