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SProblem with ARC Pro and curved lane changers

Dr_C

309 posts

Just to confirm.. BOTH track mods should be wired IDENTICALLY as per my photo posted here on 19/12/17. This is also what Blagard-01 shows in his perfectly correct diagram. The mirror symmetry shown in the diagram has reversed the colours used to differentiate the two jumpers in each case. However, the electrons, of course, do not care what colour of wire they are flowing through... i.e. unquestionably the diagram correctly shows the two modified parts are IDENTICAL.

 

Meanwhile you are absolutely right not to attempt the mod until it has all become absolutely clear and unambiguous.

 

Happy to take any further questions..,

 

With kindest wishes for 2018,

 

C

barryhi33

93 posts

Thanks guys ......

Dr_C

309 posts

Please see attached photograph of TWO modified 1/4 length track sections installed each side of the ARC PRO power base. This gives full DIGITAL compatibility to the ARC PRO including all SSD layout configurations (including 2-into-1 chicanes where primary lanes 1 and 2 are bridged) and all track pieces past and present (including unmodified and modified curved lane changers).

For ANALOG mode simply remove the modified 1/4 length track sections and replace with normal track. Then the system will perform as per the APB C7042 when in analog mode i.e. lanes 1 and 2 must never be bridged and curved lane changers must at least be modified using the standard digital-to-analog mod.

Enjoy 2018!

C

 

 

 

barryhi33

93 posts

Dr_C

 

Out of interest how did you cut the track, what did you use  ?  - its a very clean job.

 

Thanks

Dr_C

309 posts

Hi Barryhi33,

 

To modify the track sections to introduce the dead spots you can achieve a very neat result by lifting the rails then cutting with a dremel. To do this I mark up then cut out a 10mm section. I then file back each of the two main rail sections by 1mm. When re-assembling the three pieces... this creates... rail then 1mm gap then 10mm rail with dead spot then another 1mm gap then the remaining section of rail. This isolates the centre 10mm section as a dead spot and creates a nice flush surface for the brushes to ride over. 

 

To lift the rails I release the tabs on the back and then the rails can be easily removed. With care the rails can be cut with a dremel using a circular cutting disk. (Please remember to wear eye protection when using the dremel). When I re-assemble the three rail pieces to introduce the dead spot I use 5 min epoxy to hold rails in place by using  small amounts of epoxy in close proximity to the cut positions. Here I make sure the centre piece is not touching the main rails on either side.

 

I solder the rail cross-over jumpers as per the earlier diagram and photos.This needs to be carried out with care to avoid melting/deforming the black plastic track part.

 

Dr C

MashaFX

41 posts

Scaley could of gave us a switch. What's a switch? I get the want everything to be fancy and automatic but this is far from automatic.Can i simply reverse the power to the rail on Arc Pro? Yes naughty but would it work? Would it interfere with the sensors electonic for that lane? I have racing line chicane lane changers.

Dr_C

309 posts

There is a modification on slotforum international described by riko which reverses the track power wiring to one of the lanes. If you wish to use track pieces which electrically bridge between lanes it is a great work-around...but only for digital mode. Probably invalidates warranty... so does carry some risks... 

 

The modification has no effect what so ever on correct function of the lap counting sensors.

 

C

gorp

620 posts

Riko's arc digital only mod on slot forum works.

Disconnect 2 power wires from 1 lane then resolder those 2 on opposite side of lane.

Since 1 lane has been changed , analog runs like a city street with cars running both directions.

But moding or keeping arc pro stock really depends on your needs , digital only or including normal racing analog.

 

Read of work around where lines go out to switch allowing choice between stock and mod analog direction.

Wondering if just brought 1 lane power out under to connect to lane jumpers to plug into track depending on choice of digital or analog , would be easier than installing a switch.

With both lanes powered out , analog racing direction could also be reversed just as with scaly powerbase from early 2000s that could use 1 power pack per lane with direction choice being just a plug in under base.

 

 

MashaFX

41 posts

I didn't want to open up the PB track yet, but I will. For now I've done the X wire, with out cutting my track, flipping the wire of 1 lane in 2 corner crossovers, avoiding putting more dead spots in the track. 

gorp

620 posts

great idea using crossovers off of lane 1 without cutting or soldering

same principal as my gem, using pitlanes to offer lane choice right after powerbase

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