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SProblem with ARC Pro and curved lane changers

MashaFX

41 posts

@gorp

great idea using crossovers off of lane 1 without cutting or soldering

same principal as my gem, using pitlanes to offer lane choice right after powerbase

I'm not sure i get this pit lane right after Powerbase option.

It's also worth noting, the flipped polarity doesn't have to be right after and before power base. We can place them anywhere in the track, as long as they seprate the shorting lane changer from the power base section. 

gorp

620 posts

there is a single lane pitlane exit connected to powerbase enterance lane 1 (closest to control unit)

and a single lane pitlane enterance  connected to powerbase exit lane 1

 

flipped polarity is wrong word choice

you are creating a dead spot to achieve all 1 lane over the mod side of track

anywhere before first shorting site after powerbase and after last shorting site on track before the powerbase

 

Dr_C

309 posts

@gorp

flipped polarity is wrong word choice

you are creating a dead spot to achieve all 1 lane over the mod side of track

I think MashaFX is using pre-existing dead spots in the curved cross-overs but flipping the polarity of one of the lanes... nice solution for keeping curved lane changers in play... so long as you are happy using cross-overs too. Flipped polarity terminology is perfectly clear to me.

C

 

MashaFX

41 posts

@gorp

there is a....

 

Ahhh! so the cars (toys as you call them) only ever pass over 1 lane of the start finish line. The other lane remains unconnected to any track. Yes that would work but what about close finishes? This always forces 1 car behind the other, every lap. I suppose I'll get that single lane I wanted but I didn't want it over the start finish line. It also won't look very good and is an expensive waste of pitlane pieces, which are way too long anyways, especialy 2 in the same straight.

MashaFX

41 posts

@Dr_C

flipped polarity is wrong word choice

you are creating a dead spot to achieve all 1 lane over the mod side of track

I think MashaFX is using pre-existing dead spots in the curved cross-overs but flipping the polarity of one of the lanes... nice solution for keeping curved lane changers in play... so long as you are happy using cross-overs too. Flipped polarity terminology is perfectly clear to me.

C

 

Yes this is exactly as I've done. I don't think Gorp has understood by explination. 

My solution isn't good for those who don't like Cross-Overs in their track. But, for those who do, much better than chopping up a section and adding more deadspots. The Cross-Over polarity flip is also a lot easier to do, no soldering required.

gorp

620 posts

understand it now

thought you said only powered off first lane but ...

 

using pitlanes is not a waste because they are actually lane changers giving the same choice as dual straight  changers when leaving power base

imagine racing for finish with winner clearly shown by exit pitlane , not where toy eye and guide are

hey requirements were plug / play and run all scaly digital including single lanes

thats the real gem

MashaFX

41 posts

Here's another 1 for you gorp. Isn't the power base the wrong way round? Surely, due to how power slides work and missing sensors, having the Digital sensor the other side of the track so placing it directly after a corner or half straight, corner, could now be a thing. This was my initial thinking to it being that way but i had it the wrong way round.

Dr_C

309 posts

A year on I think we have found lots of ways of makng our curved lane changers compatible with the ARC PRO... I wonder if Hornby have any plans to update the ARC PRO to make all these user innovations unnecessary?

 

C

gorp

620 posts

C,

The question of if and when scaly corrects the arc pro was reason behind my question if anyone with a sunset speedway (?) had the same problem as the original.

Believe Mr Flippant confirmed the disappointing no change with arc pro.

gorp

Hello all,

This is fantastic news regarding the workable mods for my 6 curved lane changers!

However I just want to confirm that option "C" with the two modded sections with dead spots and jumper rewirng underneath is still in fact the way to go. Is this still the best solution?

Also would there happen to be a video available showing Exactly how this is done (especially the dead spots created with Dremel)?

 

THANKS VERY MUCH!!

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