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SARC Pro - Curved Lane Changer Mod


173 posts

I have just completed a modification to a curved lane changer. It totally isolates lanes 1 and 2 requires chopping out a section of rails and two soldered wires.

The first step was to cut the links as below so the power from the lead out changer continued to power both rails into the lane change.


Then I chopped out what was close to 15mm of rail leaving behind some ragged bits on at the sides of each rails (Top cut clean through) The ragged bits were bent inwards to leave as a physical key to the filler I used to reinstate the middle


Next I tinned up some silicone insulated wire and pushed the ends into the rails I needed to get power to from the 2nd lane. The other ends wer soldered to the remaining sections of ribbon I had left.


So now the lead out rails all powered by what I will call Lane 21 - no mods required to wiring other than the two snips on the connecting ribbon. With the break now in the changing lane the lead in part was simply wired in parrallel to Lane 1. 

Finally using a former wrapped in clingfilm to keep the slot correct I filled the lot with a two part filler like P38 etc. The good news is it works! - Image may take some time to appear!








173 posts

A few typos there as I put the post up. The main thing is that each main lane either side of the cut in the middle, powers the respective part of the change lane. The dead section is to ensure the pickups don't short across two main lanes.


So if you look at the 3rd image down, you can see the ribbon takes power from the lane on the right and feeds what is now half of the changing lane. The two wires do exactly the same on the left half.


The second image down shows the very simple way to isolate one lane from the other. 


648 posts



looking left to right but believe is same right to left of pic 2 and 4

thought remembered that flippers do not conduct power 

if that is true, does stock left rail pass the flipper connect to left receiving lane

while the stock right rail pass the flipper is powered by original up to the exit flipper


if this is true, why not just cut out only the right rail just pass the original lane flipper

and just solder that section to the right receiving lane

guess thats 2 cuts and 2 solders


but if memory flippers  being nonpowered is wrong , ignore this

and again congratulations


648 posts

oh forgot this is on a previous modified curve digital changer so analog could run on apb

and 2 solder means 1 wire only required

and if this is correct

then first step to making curved changer arc pro usable would be to do original snip snip

then your mod


648 posts

saw over at slot forum, digital, scaly

that they have a solution for curved changers too that modifys only arc pro powerbase which makes it usable for digital use only because analog then runs only in opposite directions

but adding a switch is suggested as a possible solution to racing analog again on arc pro


9 posts

After making snips to the ribbon to isolate, and creating a gap in the lane, couldnt you just run taps across? from the tabs on the outer lane to the tabs on the now separated and unpowered middle bit?

Actually, couldnt you get away with one wire, from the inner curve of the outer lane, to the inner curve of the middle lane.  the outer curve of the middle lane would surely get connected by the next scalextric piece?

Maybe a top down pic, with arrows pointing to what is bridging to what would be really helpful.

Well done on this :)



173 posts

It is a right hand curve out to in with a fixed exit "flipper" that is electrically dead.


As you know the lead in flipper is live "left or right "depending on which way it is flipped so power is there right up to my cut


You could instead do one cut oppersite the dead exit flipper except in practical terms I think it would be more difficult to do due to the confined space. Certainly I found it just possible to do what is shown using nothing more than my dremel with a metal cutting disc and a hacksaw. Getting the rails cut out was the difficult bit!


Each rail is a channel section like a small "n" with the top being the visible part you see. I initially cut the top exactly where I wanted the dead spot but cut the verticals maybe 3mm nearer the middle leaving  "tangs" I could bend in to each other, taking care to make sure the upper part of the tang was well below what would be the final surface. The reason is normally the rails are anchored to the plastic at every see through space you see in the slot. When you cut the rails you get a free floating end of steel and I wanted that to be anchored into the filler. - I ended up putting black boot polish on the filler to make it blend in more!



I think the working oppersite a flipper is most likely going to result in damaging it. Likewise when I tucked the wires into the cut rails I did that rather than risk soldering direct to a rail and melting plastic. I found it very easy to tin the remaining parts of the ribbon to connect the other wire ends. In use I have not noticed any problem going across that short dead section I created.


Underside with the cover re-fitted as below


311 posts

I just modified a track section to introduce a dead spot... got a very neat result by lifting the rail then cutting with a dremmel. I cut out a 10mm section then filed each remaining piece back by 1mm then re-assembled all three pieces... this creates... track then 1mm gap then 10mm track with dead spot then another 1mm gap then the remaining section of track. This looks very tidy, isolates the track and creates a nice flush surface for the brushes to ride over... this approach should work very well alongside the fixed output flipper/wedge as per above discussion...


173 posts

How did you lift the rail without it buckling? Or did you undo the clamped over locations?


You will still need to wire the rail across to the rail the other side of the flipper (Same rail split by the flipper)


311 posts

Yep - released the tabs on the back and then the rail easily lifts off - and if careful you can cut the rail without deforming it. And yes... one wire jumper required for the curve changer mod. This too could be done when the rail is removed to avoid the risk of melting/deforming the plastic track. We now have evidence that all three of the earlier discussed options will achieve compatibility, i.e.

Option A: modify the Arc Pro as per recent slotforum post 

Option B: modify curved lane changer as per your description above.

Option C: modify standard track sections on either side of the ARC Pro. This involves making dead spots in one of the lanes and then using jumpers to create a cross-over between the two rails of that lane. Electrically this is the same as Option A.

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