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Dr_C

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Dr_C

297 posts

If you have, or know someone who has, a digital multimeter you could check whether the power supply unit is delivering 15Volts dc. If it correctly registers 15Volts then probably the powerbase itself is at fault.

 

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Dr_C

297 posts

Hi Phil5150,

 

To understand and fix the problem... a photo of your setup would help if possible please...

Meanwhile two quick questions...

1/ Are both powerbases identical?

2/ Are both powerbases connected the same way around i.e. base units on the same side of the track?

 

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Dr_C

297 posts

I would also recommend a digital multimeter... these start at around £10... great for simple trouble shooting as and when things stop working. One which has a buzzer to confirm electrical continuity is best. You dont need anything special... just a low cost one will be fine...

 

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Dr_C

297 posts

Hi bart001, I 100% agree with woodcote that the C7005 retro-fit SSD decoder is the best replacement to get a Carrera F1 car running on an SSD track. Although the slot.it Oxigen O201 type C decoder/receiver is a very flexible multi-platform device (slot.it_O2/SSD/Carrera).. it is a lot more expensive and not so well suited to F1 applications. For this device, the two IR LED light sources are in fixed positions on the underside of the circuit board making precise circuit board placement critical. This will be quite challenging in the compact dimensions of an F1 car. The C7005 on the other hand, has a single IR LED for SSD only whichis pre-soldered onto a flying lead... this device should be far easier to fit into the F1 model.

 

Hope this helps too...

 

C

Dr_C

297 posts

Happy to report my new DB5 now has a matching brand new chrome boot lid... thank you Scalextric for an amazing and very fast response from the customer suport team

:)

https://www.slotforum.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=189363

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Dr_C

297 posts

Hopefully post #5 below helps explain the underlying issue and helps to provide a working solution... please let us know how you get on...

 

C

 

https://www.slotforum.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=189217

Dr_C

297 posts

Hi MrsKat, one more test to try...

 

I suggest you try putting the car on each lane in turn. In each case put the track voltage tester behind the car and press the trottle.

 

For the good lane when you press the throttle... the car should move and also the tester should signal track voltage while the car is moving.

 

What happens with the problem lane? We know the car wont move when you press the throttle... but does the tester still give a signal that track voltage is present or not?

 

If there is a unintended high series resistance somewhere in the circuit then while the throttle is pressed...

the tester would register voltage under no load condition (i.e. no car on the track)

however...

the track voltage would drop to zero under load conditions (i.e. when the car is on the track)...

 

Would be good to learn how you get on with this simple test...

 

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Dr_C

297 posts

Hi chris_bomicino and Andy P,

 

As you say Andy lots of discussion to date on this topic re 4 lane ARC PRO but not aware that anyone has done it as yet.

 

My view is that the simple doubling-up approach is unlikely to work as the ARC PRO puts the signal line low until the blade detector sensor is interupted. Its only when the blade detect sensor is interupted that the signal from the IR LED on the underside of the car is passed through to the powerbase electronics.

 

Hence there are three issues in attempting to use a lane changer sensor paralled up...

 

1/ the sensor design is different and does not incorporate a blade sensor.

2/ you would have to find a suitable signal point on the sensor board as the standard output jack is designed to power a solenoid rather than couple into a circuit as a pull-down transistor.

3/ the main blade detect signal in the ARC PRO blocks all signals anyway until it itself detects a blade, so n signals would get through if paralled up..

 

All of the above makes the challenge difficult but not impossible...

 

I, with others, am currently developing a small circuit board which will use a microcontroller to interface to all the necessary sensors for a four lane start/finish line (and up to two pit lanes). The microcontroller will then output signals correctly onto the main circuit board of the ARC PRO.

 

This is quite a complex project involving new hardware and new embedded software. Not easy!

 

I hope all of the above is helpful... and, of course, if there is any easier way to do all of this... I would love to hear from others...

 

C

 

Dr_C

297 posts

Hi JPaindaveine,

 

I think this is one for Scalextric customer care... it sounds like an internal fault inside the powerbase and better to ask Scalextric to fix/replace (assuming it is under warranty ).

 

By the way, what happens in analog mode? Is the A lane ok and the B lane dead i.e. similar to digital?

 

The fact that one lane functions in digital mode suggests all four electronic output transistors on the main circuit board of the powerbase are fine - hence likely it is a detached internal wire. That said, best route would be to ask Scalextric customer care for assistance...

 

Hope this helps,

 

C

 

Dr_C

297 posts

@Mataus

Bought the ARC Pro for my son and spent 2 weeks trying to figure out why the app wouldn't count more than 1 lap.

Fault was apparent using any car on either lane on a basic oval track using 5 different devices. All other functions of the app worked including, calibration, lane change, braking, etc.

After following all the advice on the forums and contacting Scalextric I still could not use the ARC Pro as the most basic function of lap counting is required.

I came across this Magic ARC app whilst reading the mostly negative reviews of the official Scalextric app on Google play store.

Downloaded the Magic ARC app to android phone and the ARC Pro works perfectly!

I think it's quite embarrassing that the Scalextric app is inferior to an enthusiasts app... not taking anything away from the App creator  'Cristiano Ruisi' as it better in all areas. 

 

If the official app only counts 1 lap, while the magic app counts laps correctly it is likely due to a faulty exit sensor. The two apps use different methods to avoid double counting of laps. The official app needs the exit sensor to be triggered before the next lap for that car can be counted. The exit sensor is inside the track base piece at the opposite end to the start/finish line. The Magic app does not use the exit sensor in this way... instead it requires a time delay before the next lap can be counter.

 

Causes of a faulty exit sensor can be:

 

1/ Internal plug and socket connectors not seated correctly.

2/ sensor board inserted 180 degress rotated... so lane 1 and lane 2 sensibg is reversed.

3/ internal fault on circuit board (unlikely).

 

Apologies for delay in providing this input...

 

C

 

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