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Dr_C

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Dr_C

309 posts

Hi Roy_fitzsimmonds,

 

I bought one of the new Scalextric e-types with a plan to convert to digital. They are NOT digital plug ready (i.e non-DPR) and the drive configuration places the motor up front. However it is perfectly feesible to convert to digital using the C7005 digital upgrade chip but this does require a basic level of soldering skill. Also, the motor is quite close to the guide blade so some precision drilling is required to position the infra red (IR) light emitting diode in-between. I can take some photos as I carry out the mod then share on this thread if that would be helpful. If you want me to do this please let me know...

 

C

Dr_C

309 posts

Just to add... if you want to use an ARC AIR single button throttle with ARC PRO and you intend to use the ‘pitting features’ then, of course, you will need BOTH buttons to function as the BRAKE button is required to signal that you are stopping to ‘pit’... in this case switching the wires would be unhelpful as you would forfeit the ‘brake‘ button in exchange for ‘lane change’ button. Hence, definitely you would need both buttons to function. I have on order a ‘slot.it’ designed and 3-d printed additional button (sorry if this is unintended advertising or product placement - but I am just a simple ‘hobbyist‘ with no commercial associations :-) ...). I’ll report back on my experience in modifying an ARC AIR throttle to two button capability using this 3-d printed additional button. Hoping this will be a positive experience. But let’s see....

 

C

Dr_C

309 posts

Hi Rich,

I’ve got two ARC AIRs working together without interference so there is a solution in sight! If you ask the Administrator to forward your email contact details to me - I’m happy to explain next week. Please don’t post your contact details on this site.

Just to mention, I don’t think the space for the four jumpers (which I mention in my last post) has anything to do with channel selection.  No idea what they are for... perhaps firmare upgrades? but I genuinely do not know.

Enjoy the New Year festivities,

C

Dr_C

309 posts

@ice carver

Just wondering:

1/ Did you set the digital car ID to match the hand controller ID? i.e. 1-6?

2/ To check power is getting to the track, you could place a digital car on the track, then power up the base ( with switch set to digital), does the car lurch forward a few cm?

Good luck...

 

C

Dr_C

309 posts

Hi Rich,

The chip is a Nordic semiconductor SoC rf chip which contains a range of general purpose I/O pins. I suspect the firmware is different, not least because the version in the PRO registers 6 controllers and the AIR registers 2. The two pins on the AIR variant (which correspond to the channel selector pins on the PRO variant) are tied permanently to a large ground pad which extends under IC so it would be impossible to access these pins without removal of the IC. However, if the firmware in the AIR routes a channel section function to other pins... we might be in with a chance. On the AIR pcb there is a space for a four connection jumper near the rf chip. Pin1 (square pad) is at ground, pins 2 and 3 each route back to the rf chip. There’s just an outside chance these might be for channel selection... I’ll check and report back.

 

C

Dr_C

309 posts

Hi there, I have an ARC AIR and an ARC PRO. From my investigations, the ARC AIR uses a transistor as a simple analog device hence works extremely well with both old and new analog cars as well as digital cars when running in analog mode. Meanwhile the ARC PRO uses a technique known as pulse width modulation (PWM) for its analog mode. This varies the time duration of full voltage pulses in order to adjust power to the motor. There are good reasons for using this technique as the same output circuits can be used for both digital and analog. This works very well in most cases. So basically... the two bases use completely different techiques to achieve analog control.

My suggestion would be to give the ARC AIR a chance... I just tried mine with a 1960’s DB4 and all seemed good ... except for the excessive tyre skid because I was using the wrong type of track... and, of course, the white 1960’s guide pins don’t trigger the lap sensors...

Dr_C

309 posts

Remember there is the option of buying 3-d printed buttons which look easy to fit into a one button ARC AIR controller. Including packaging I think they cost approx £10 for 4.

 

Can’t imagine wireless throttle parts would fit into wired controller...

Dr_C

309 posts

Just to add, the two pins are general interface pins of a SoC (system-on-chip) radio frequency IC. I‘m not sure whether the same firmware is loaded onto the versions installed into the AIR and the PRO - i.e whether these two pins have the same function on both bases. I’ll check this. An alternative approach might be to ask Scalextric if there is a firmware upgrade which changes the default channel on the ARC AIR, and if so, how this could be uploaded over the radio link.

Dr_C

309 posts

OK it looks extremely difficult to sort - but just about possible i think. Sorry this is not to helpful in the short term...

1/ 2.4 GHz comms chip on ARC PRO uses two pins to select controller channel. In standard configuration these are open circuit, pulled low if the micro switches are closed.

2/ the ARC AIR appears to use the same 2.4 GHz comms chip, however the two pins in question are left open circuit with no track or landing pad to connect to. This is a suface mount IC with extremely fine pitch pins - actually the pins are too close to resolve by eye - need an eye glass to see the pins clearly. Soldering to these pins would require quite an advanced soldering capability way beyond kitchen table DIY.

Unless I am mistaken the task looks highly challenging. Please let me know if you want to pursue this in the new year... maybe I can help you...

Dr_C

309 posts

Just taking a look - hope to have some news in half an hour or so...

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