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Dr_C

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Dr_C

297 posts

Hope it works for you! I am planning to switch the wires around sometime before the weekend so can take some pictures if that helps...

Dr_C

297 posts

Hi barryhi33’

When I tested the idea of rotating the board by 180 degreed I found the button ‘pusher pin’ did not align correctly with the pcb switch. To function correctly the two need to be well aligned with the pusher pin ‘centred‘ on the depression point at the centre of the pcb button. If not the switch action will be unreliable. Happy to share a simple diagram if that would help?

C

Dr_C

297 posts

Hi Gorp, I am genuinely puzzled^2 by your above comments and opinions. What you assert is rather bizzare to say the least!

C

Dr_C

297 posts

Gorp - I’m a hobbyist like you!

 

Are you seeking to deny me the right to express my own technical opinions and the findings of my own technical investigations as carried out on kitchen table? If so why?

 

C

Dr_C

297 posts

Hi Blagard-01,

 

Just to confirm my early production version of the ARC AIR included two of the single button versions of the wireless throttles. These have a small pcb which has two pcb buttons fitted i.e. one remains concealed. I can confirm this concealed button is FULLY FUNCTIONAL for lane changing with ARC PRO.

 

Hence, if you want to use with ARC PRO there are three simple options:

 

1/ cross wire two of the wires to this button pcb (yellow and white if I remember correctly) so you have lane change functionality in place of brake.

2/ use the slot-it 3-D printed plastic button top and cut the casing as appropriate.

3/ wait for someone to design a better 3-D replica of the standard button top.

 

Hope the above positive update is helpful.

 

C

Dr_C

297 posts

 

I believe the subject of modification of curved lane changers is fast approaching a final conclusion... there are just two details I wish to cover off...

 

1/ what if your curved lane changer has a 'floating' type of output wedge? What should the modification look like? I will exemplify this with photos in my next post below.

 

2/ from a practical point of view what are the 'does' and 'don'ts of introducing 10-12mm dead spots into track rails to eliminate 'signal contention' I.e. the types of issues (short circuits) that drive power bases into overload mode thereby triggering SAFE mode. And of course as applied in all of the above modifications.

To avoid duplicate entries I will post my response to item 2/ under the thread...

Problem with ARC Pro and curved lane changers

Hope all of this is useful...

 

C

Dr_C

297 posts

Thanks Josef for sharing these photos and also the ones where you show how you modify the flexible pcb tracks (i.e. by removing from the clamps then insulating using cellotape/scotchtape).

The photos are great and really show the practicality of modifying the curved lane changers.

 

My thoughts are:

 

1/ remember you need to make the cut gap much wider (e.g. 10-15mm£ to avoid unnecessary short circuits as the brush crosses the gap) otherwise you will be creating lots of radio frequency interference (remember the purpose of monsieur 'ferrite'), unnecessary sparking and unnecessary stressing of the ARC PRO overload mode!

 

2/ I really really like the cellotape/scotchtape idea you show in your photos. Based on your posts I did the standard 'digital-to-analog' mods on my eight pristine curved lane changers without a single 'snip'... I used pvc tape but otherwise the same as I learned from your photos. Modifying all eight curved changers took just 1/2 hour. Thanks for the amazing 'steer'!!!

 

Finally, I genuinely hope the photo I posted with the little mini approaching a DOUBLE cut ( which introduces a 10-12mm dead zone) causes you to re-visit the appropriate size of the gap in your design approach. Take care,

 

C

Dr_C

297 posts

Please note the 1mm-10mm-1mm technique for gap-deadspot-gap was discussed above on this thread on1/12/17.

 

Further photo attached showing red jumper wire soldered in place. Hope this adds clarification...

 

Enjoy :-)

 

 

 

Dr_C

297 posts

Modification front and back then shown in use with the ARC PRO... in FULL digital mode of course!!! :-)

Dr_C

297 posts

Hi Gorp, this is a very good question - thank you for seeking clarification on this point...

 

So, there are two main variants of the curved lane changer mod as introduced within this thread. The first requires two 10mm dead spots to be formed, side-by-side, at some point in the changing lane section of the track piece (please see blagard-01’s first set of photos on this thread). This ‘side-by-side‘ approach will work with all types of lane changers regardless of whether the exit flipper/wedge is ‘floating‘ type (pre circa 2005 production) or the later ‘fixed‘ type.

 

If the exit wedge is of the later ‘fixed‘ type (i.e. locked firmly in a centred and fixed position usind a small locking pin on the underside) then the simplified ‘single-sided’ variant can used as per the later more recent photos shared in this Thread. These later photos clearly show the correct positioning of 10mm single dead spot and, as you will see, blagard-01’s photos are almost identical to mine in this regard.

 

I hope this explanation is helpful :-)

 

C

 

This leaves one further question... if using the ‘side-by-side‘ variant - where is it best to location for the dead spots? 

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