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Dr_C

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Dr_C

300 posts

Thanks Blagard-01 for helping with a further diagram image.. I very much appreciate this kind help...

C

Dr_C

300 posts

Hi all, yes, this option C will be fine for up to the maximum number of cars i.e. 6.

This is not a problem because inside the ARC PRO the exact same drive circuit powers both lanes anyway (it’s just that the signal polarities have reversed for other reasons). For 4 or more cars you need two standard PSUs to be plugged in (as per Scalextric instructions).

Just to clarify a point of detail, way back when I first proposed option C, what I had in mind was exactly as per Blagard-01’s above diagram. However more recently I have been proposing an alternative way to implement Option C to achieve an identical ’electrical‘ effect - by simply cross wiring the rails of a single lane at the point where the dead spot is formed. I show this as the point marked X in my earier rough ‘tty‘ diagrams. This keeps the modification effort to one lane only. I know an updated diagram is required to add further clarity and I hope to share this tomorrow along with some nice photos the little red mini in action on curved lane changers!

I hope this helps...

C

Dr_C

300 posts

Above post while slightly ‘of topic’ does contain an interesting metaphor which, for me, brings two important thoughts to mind...

1/ does the sight impaired squirrel find the nuts because it uses all of its other sensory inputs working collectively to help pin point the food?

2/ or does the squirrel live within a ‘caring community‘ which helps ensure those squirrels which have difficulties finding food are supported?

Sorry if this off topic - but it ‘kind-of‘ follows on from the wider scope and perspective introduced in the previous post.

Dr_C

300 posts

Now finished a couple of alternative versions of the curved lane changer approach... each version uses the 10mm dead spots mentioned earlier. Still testing...

1/ similar to blagard-01’s excellent ‘double dead spots‘ approach but modified using the rail ‘remove-cut-and-replace’ technique described earlier in this thread.

2/ introduction of a single 10mm dead spot alongside the output flipper (wedge) - but this can only be used for variants where this wedge is fixed in position (otherwise shorts would result).

Time taken to modify two curved lane changers was a total of approx 1 hr i.e 1/2 hr per changer using dremmel, hand file, 5 mins epoxy and attachment of one jumper wire.

Photos and diagrams to follow - slightly delayed because I want to compare and contrast the two alternative versions... :-)

Dr_C

300 posts

No worries... it’s likely to be Monday before I upload more photos of my track based trials...

Dr_C

300 posts

Thanks both - yes been a bit busy on several fronts... just learned how to post photos (great progress for a newbie like me). I’ll put up another photo and then another diagram (big thanks blagard-01 for helping with this) and then ...  (hopefully) that will be option C fully covered. My 1/4 length modified track parts are now ready for endurance testing over the festive season!!! Thanks to those who have formed a critical review panel for this option... I know it has absorbed quite a bit of your time - thank you!

And, just added jumpers to implement Options B and C using a soldering iron but without risk of melting the plastic track (idea copied directly from Scalextric actually so not new at all) ... more of a simple and hopefully useful tip... :-)

Dr_C

300 posts

No worries - and meanwhile I appreciate the good sense of humour, and good sense of irony, brought together in typing the post directly above this one.

Dr_C

300 posts

I, too, think I‘m getting a better understanding of the requirement...

1/ preference to retain safe (minimum) speed option as part of the game.

2/ requirement to stop all cars at the tap of a button.

And, if you are walking around supporting the kids at the same time... perhaps the button should be on a wireless fob. This should all be do-able using the bluetooth platform embedded within the ARC PRO... but I suspect it would need some professional help from an experienced design team...?

Dr_C

300 posts

So just to sum up then to clarify my so called ‘Option C’...

While the ARC PRO is absolutely awesome straight out of the box - with amazing functionality in both digital and analog configurations (simply by throwing a small switch on the side of the base), a few minor compatibility issues have been observed by the early adopters. Not much of a problem... and there is a range of solutions as per this thread.

The observed issue is that old curved lane changers, some digital counters and any 2-into-1 chicaine features (if they cause primary lanes1 and 2 to become electrically connected)... result in the current production version of the ARC PRO (2017) going into SAFE mode. The simple answer is to remove these track components... and then to get on enjoying the new power base in both digital and analog modes.

The reason for the above issue appears to stem from a design trade-off which causes a reversal of the signal polarities (in digital mode) for lanes 1 and 2 with respect to each other. This is of no consequence in digital mode unless the two lanes become ‘bridged‘ i.e. electrically interconnected. There is no issue whatsover in analog mode where (of course) the cars in both lanes move in the same direction as both expected and required!

But... if you do want to keep those old (disconinued) curved changers on track (as I do) then there are three options to consider. All of these are now proven effective.

Option A: modify the track wiring inside the ARC PRO (not recommended likely to void warranty).

Option B: modify all the above track parts, for example modifying each curved lane changer as described by blagard-01 in the link shared in an earlier post on this thread.

Option C: modify two 1/4 length straights by creating a 10mm dead spot in one of the lanes then cross wire underneath.

======= lane1

===X=== lane 2

X marks location of the dead spot and also shows the required cross-wiring (for underneath).

using Option C in practice..

1/ for absolute full digital compatibility (I believe) with all SSD track parts past and present ... insert these modified track parts on both sides of the ARC PRO. Then enjoy digital mode!

2/ for full analog compatibility... simply replace the modified 1/4 straights with standard ones... then enjoy analog mode!

QED

 

Dr_C

300 posts

The above photo is of a digitally converted Scalextric mini... imagine the co-driver’s calls as the mini passes the ARC PRO power base when driving on an Option C configured track (see all posts above)...

“dead spot ahead - step on gas”

”left 90 turn ahead - exit right lane”

So just to confirm... down on the track Option C works a treat... honestly!

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