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Dr_C

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Dr_C

296 posts

Yep the ARC PRO powerbase mod (either of the two shown on slotforum international) put the polarity of the digital signals on the two lanes into phase matching. Hence, 2-into-1 chicanes and unmodified LCLs will then function correctly for the system operating in digital mode.

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Dr_C

296 posts

Thanks woodcote for the informative update... so at least the issue is known with a solution in sight... many thanks

 

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Dr_C

296 posts

Over the years every Scalextric product I have purchased has functioned perfectly and looked great... well that is until yesterday... when my new Aston Martin DB5 C4029 arrived in an amazing metallic black paint finish... its chrome plated boot lid was missing... and I have learned that others have the same problem too.

 

Might Hornby make available some of the missing parts please? It would be a pity to waste resources by shipping nearly (but not quite) perfect model cars backwards and forwards under warranty... especially when the missing part could be easily glued into place by the user. This is such a nice design... but it does need its chrome plated boot lid please!

 

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Dr_C

296 posts

i wonder if by any chance you have the pit entry and pit exit the wrong way around... only theentry section has a sensor... just a thought?

 

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Dr_C

296 posts

Hi Woodycolorado,

 

So you have sorted the problem with the ARC PRO... but you are still getting power interuptions with the ARC AIR?

 

Do the problems occur when you race two standard Scalextric analog cars against each other? The ARC AIR has a separate current sensor for each lane so if either car is drawing too much current... I believe the power shuts down. Adding a larger transformer might give more even power... but the current sensors will still trip at the same current value. Of thecars you mention you own, the Scalextric ones are likely to run with the lowest current... do two Scalextric cars racing against each other cause the problems you mentioned earlier?

 

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Dr_C

296 posts

In case anyone experiences problems similar to above and plans to reposition the IR LEDs on the underpan of their SSD cars... there is a brief summary describing how the ARC PRO start-finish sensor operates... via the link below...

 

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https://www.slotforum.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=187947&p=2226501

Dr_C

296 posts

The problem with ARC PRO and 2-into-1 chicanes is that you cannot allow the two primary lanes from the powerbase to reduce to a single lane as this causes the powerbase to overload. Technically the two primary lanes through the ARC PRO power base are wired with opposite digital polarities.

 

The layouts shown above expand the two primary lanes out to four lanes, and the 2-into-1 chicanes then reduce back to just the two primary lanes... so that all looks fine. The issue would occur only if the 2-into-1 chicanes were used directly to connect together (electrically bridging) the two primary lanes...

 

Hope that helps...

 

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Dr_C

296 posts

Hi JohnHG,

 

Sorry to hear you are having problems with the ARC app when using Andriod  7.0.

 

To date, I have only tried Apple iOS. In my case I have had 100% success with all variants of iphone and ipad that I had tried using the ARC APP. Well... except for cases were I have tried to use the pacer car function which has been a bit of a disappointment.. but the rest of the ARC app functionality has been truely amazing!

 

I am very interested in trying the Android app, too, and wonder what device you are using with Android 7.0 which is giving the problems?

 

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Dr_C

296 posts

Hi dd213, we all do these things... I managed to brick a brand new APB powerbase a few months ago by loading the wrong firmware... I just happened to be very very lucky that a solution came into focus... however the ARC PRO uses more advanced technology for firmware upgraded and so far more difficult to rectify if you go off course... if you are in the US there are some amazing deals online for just the ARC PRO without transformer and without wireless controllers... might be worth investigating...

 

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Dr_C

296 posts

ok yes... this is more difficult than I had assumed... If you programmed the firmware into thinking it is a different type of device - for example a wireless controller - then the sequence for setting the BLE device into DFU mode for firmware update over air by nRF tools may itself be different. It may therefore be necessary to reflash using the J-link hard wired interface which needs specialist knowledge and interface hardware. Probably best in this situation to ask Hornby customer support whether they could help you by reflashing the main nRF51822 processor with BLE v2.6 firmware.

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