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Dr_C

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Dr_C

274 posts

Yes, I suspect you have done as woodcote suggests... probably you loaded the wrong firmware onto the ARC PRO powerbase when yo were using nRF tools. I believe the version you need to use is now BLE v2.6 and please make sure it is for ARC PRO and not ARC AIR.

 

I suspect the firmware you used was from the slot.it website where there are two versions of firmware intended for the  ARC wireless throttle controllers... one to switch the controller to the oxigen system (not compatible with Scalextric powerbases) and the other (labelled Hornby) which switches the firmware back to compatibility with ARC PRO and ARC AIR.

 

Next step should be to getthe ARC PRO system functioning again... i.e. controllers functionng with the powerbase...

 

Hope this helps... good luck... and please let us know how you get on...

 

C

 

https://www.scalextric.com/uk-en/arc-firmware-update

Dr_C

274 posts

Which hardware did you update? With which firmware? Using what upgrade method e.g. usb cable or over air using nRF tools?

 

C

Dr_C

274 posts

Are you saying that you see different braking effects with the APC PRO in digital mode ... depending whether the app is running or not? If so I find that very surprising... would you mind recheckng please and then confirming how exactly the braking effect differs? Many thanks...

 

C

Dr_C

274 posts

I believe the collective wisdom for ARC PRO is to use digital chipped cars in digital mode and analog (i.e. non chipped) cars in analog. If you use digital chipped cars in analog mode with an ARC PRO which is simulating analog mode there are two known problems...

1/ cars run too fast as you have observed.

2/ cars have no brakes.

Solution is simple... remove the DPR decoder and replace with an analog hatch (fitted with a simple socket) if you need to run a digital car in analog mode with the ARC PRO...

 

C

Dr_C

274 posts

Also wondering... if you look at Q1, Q3, Q7 and Q8 under a magnifying glass... do any show any signs of overheating or damage?

 

C

Dr_C

274 posts

hi MichaelDrago,

 

a photo of the underside of the circuit board showing the region around where the 4 pin socket is soldered would help too please... ie the socket which carries power to the two lanes. Many thanks...

 

C

Dr_C

274 posts

I have done all the calculations in terms of different blade to LED gaps and how this will reduce readability of car IDs with the ARC PRO powerbase. High IDs and fast cars will be affected most as the gap approaches limits. I could share the calculations here but would rather validate with a wide range of experimental trials before I do so. However I did do quite a lot of testing when I developed, for my own use, a more advanced sensor areangement for the ARC PRO. 

 

Hope you receive a useful response from Customer Services... please keep us posted...

 

C

Dr_C

274 posts

Interesting...

 

So it looks like three options...

 

1/ contact Scalextric custimer services to ask for advice quoting how temporarily lengthening the blade corrects the problem... but causes other problems...

 

2/ re-position the IR LED 10mm behind the blade assembly by drilling a 3mm hole and soldering the LED onto a flying lead.

 

3/ I wonder if a slot.it blade, perhaps a SICH10, which has a longer tail end... might solve the problem... if it fits?

 

C

Dr_C

274 posts

Once the photos are shared on Monday... I have no doubt we will be able to make some quick progress diagnosing the fault... there is really not much that can go wrong between the microcontroller and the track... just a few powerhandling components and overload sensing components. The fact that the powerbase is happy until you press the throttle suggests the PWM pins on the nRF microcontroller chip are functioning fine... it should be a straight forward repair diagnostic... hopefully (!)...

 

C

Dr_C

274 posts

photos will be useful... but I personally believe the black pvc tape test will nail it.

 

Might you give this a try too?

 

C

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