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Dr_C

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Dr_C

286 posts

Once the photos are shared on Monday... I have no doubt we will be able to make some quick progress diagnosing the fault... there is really not much that can go wrong between the microcontroller and the track... just a few powerhandling components and overload sensing components. The fact that the powerbase is happy until you press the throttle suggests the PWM pins on the nRF microcontroller chip are functioning fine... it should be a straight forward repair diagnostic... hopefully (!)...

 

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Dr_C

286 posts

photos will be useful... but I personally believe the black pvc tape test will nail it.

 

Might you give this a try too?

 

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Dr_C

286 posts

I wonder... when you torque the track by moving in the way you mention... what happens if you move the lane change flippers by hand? do you feel any additional resistance to movement? If so it would be that moving the track is distorting the plastic at the base of the pivot point of the flippers... maybe?

 

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Dr_C

286 posts

Isnt that verging on being a bit accusational...? can you be sure it was not working at the point of sale? Anyway... clearly its not functioning now and that must be very annoying... so... to sum up... you have two functionng ARC AIR single button wireless controllers and a powerbase which functions on only one lane... right?

 

From what you have said so far it is more than likely to be one of two orthree easil identifiable smd components That is at fault.. if you want to get it fixed... a photo of the top of the circuit board which shows all the components close to the track side of the printed circuit board would really help please. Also, confirmation as to which lane is giving the problem would also help please...

 

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Dr_C

286 posts

Ok, I now see that this thread is about alternatives to the ARC AIR while there is a separate thread on the subject of looking into possible diagnostics for repairing the powerbase... so I will contribute there... good luck!

 

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Dr_C

286 posts

So a few (two) thoughts from me...

 

1/ if all else fails you could use the powerbase as a lapcounter only. If so you would need to de-solder and isolate (or cut and isolate) the four wires that connect the powerbase to the track lanes. When using the app you would then need to disable all of the advanced features which over-ride manual throttle control. Pit-stops should still work fine.

 

2/ in terms of fixing the fault... I agree with woodcote... visual inspection and taking some images which you share with us would be useful. Also, do you have access to a digital test meter and know how to use it to measure resistance? If so there are some simple tests I would propose...

 

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Dr_C

286 posts

Hi MichaelDrag, I am a bit puzzled... I have several ARC AIR powerbases and they all work perfectly. Are you saying you bought a faulty second hand unit? If so, what problems are you experiencing with it? Also, you mention digital... but of course the ARC AIR is for analog two car systems... are you looking for a lap counter for an analog system, but wih a digital display read-out?

I am sure with a bit more information a number of enthusiasts on this forum will be able to help you... perhaps even we will be able to diagnose the problems you are experiencing with your current powerbase...

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Dr_C

286 posts

Hi all, yes, Andy Ps suggestion is the sensible next step... try adding the black pvc tape to extend the back of the blade so that it finshes 10mm in front of the IR LED... this should then enable digital lap counting! if this sorts the problem, as I expect it will, next step will be to permanently reposition the IR LED... I or others can then talk you through what would be required... but first it makes sense to carry out the test with black tape which would confirm we are on the right track with our diagnostic...

 

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Dr_C

286 posts

yes... good point...

 

1/ Is the lap counting problem digital only or both digital and analog.

2/ elsewhere (sf) I saw reference to pacer cars... is the counting problem occuring for driver controlled cars (as opposed to pacer cars)?

 

Many thanks and looking forward to your response,

 

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Dr_C

286 posts

Very puzzling that the gap between the guide blade assembly and the DPR hatch is so large... I can see that the front axle would coincide with the hatch if it was further forward... but a betterdesign solution for compatibiity with the ARC PRO would, in my opinion, have been a split axle approach as used in the BMC minis.

 

To confirm this diagnosis, you could run the car by hand across the start line (and remember you need to cross the exit sensor too).

 

Then, temporarily extend the length of the blade using black pvc tape... and try again. The test here is bringing the rear edge of the blade closer to the IR LED... thereby improving the dual triggering of the lap sensor configuration.

 

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