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Dr_C

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Dr_C

311 posts

I believe the collective wisdom for ARC PRO is to use digital chipped cars in digital mode and analog (i.e. non chipped) cars in analog. If you use digital chipped cars in analog mode with an ARC PRO which is simulating analog mode there are two known problems...

1/ cars run too fast as you have observed.

2/ cars have no brakes.

Solution is simple... remove the DPR decoder and replace with an analog hatch (fitted with a simple socket) if you need to run a digital car in analog mode with the ARC PRO...

 

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Dr_C

311 posts

Also wondering... if you look at Q1, Q3, Q7 and Q8 under a magnifying glass... do any show any signs of overheating or damage?

 

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Dr_C

311 posts

hi MichaelDrago,

 

a photo of the underside of the circuit board showing the region around where the 4 pin socket is soldered would help too please... ie the socket which carries power to the two lanes. Many thanks...

 

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Dr_C

311 posts

I have done all the calculations in terms of different blade to LED gaps and how this will reduce readability of car IDs with the ARC PRO powerbase. High IDs and fast cars will be affected most as the gap approaches limits. I could share the calculations here but would rather validate with a wide range of experimental trials before I do so. However I did do quite a lot of testing when I developed, for my own use, a more advanced sensor areangement for the ARC PRO. 

 

Hope you receive a useful response from Customer Services... please keep us posted...

 

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Dr_C

311 posts

Interesting...

 

So it looks like three options...

 

1/ contact Scalextric custimer services to ask for advice quoting how temporarily lengthening the blade corrects the problem... but causes other problems...

 

2/ re-position the IR LED 10mm behind the blade assembly by drilling a 3mm hole and soldering the LED onto a flying lead.

 

3/ I wonder if a slot.it blade, perhaps a SICH10, which has a longer tail end... might solve the problem... if it fits?

 

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Dr_C

311 posts

Once the photos are shared on Monday... I have no doubt we will be able to make some quick progress diagnosing the fault... there is really not much that can go wrong between the microcontroller and the track... just a few powerhandling components and overload sensing components. The fact that the powerbase is happy until you press the throttle suggests the PWM pins on the nRF microcontroller chip are functioning fine... it should be a straight forward repair diagnostic... hopefully (!)...

 

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Dr_C

311 posts

photos will be useful... but I personally believe the black pvc tape test will nail it.

 

Might you give this a try too?

 

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Dr_C

311 posts

I wonder... when you torque the track by moving in the way you mention... what happens if you move the lane change flippers by hand? do you feel any additional resistance to movement? If so it would be that moving the track is distorting the plastic at the base of the pivot point of the flippers... maybe?

 

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Dr_C

311 posts

Isnt that verging on being a bit accusational...? can you be sure it was not working at the point of sale? Anyway... clearly its not functioning now and that must be very annoying... so... to sum up... you have two functionng ARC AIR single button wireless controllers and a powerbase which functions on only one lane... right?

 

From what you have said so far it is more than likely to be one of two orthree easil identifiable smd components That is at fault.. if you want to get it fixed... a photo of the top of the circuit board which shows all the components close to the track side of the printed circuit board would really help please. Also, confirmation as to which lane is giving the problem would also help please...

 

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Dr_C

311 posts

Ok, I now see that this thread is about alternatives to the ARC AIR while there is a separate thread on the subject of looking into possible diagnostics for repairing the powerbase... so I will contribute there... good luck!

 

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