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Andy P.

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Andy P.

1536 posts

george13 said:

I'd love to see some movie cars like the 1957 Plymouth fury in christine or a selection of the cars from the iconic film American graffiti. Also it would be nice to see some old British classis the triumph vitesse or herald s type jag.

Pretty much any Triumph is up there in my books. You could easily make the Le Mans Spitfire and GT6 out of similar molds (bonnets/hoods were different and there is massive filler cap on the tail of the racing Spitfire).

The Spitfire and Stag share a back end (albeit different sizes).


Andy P.

1536 posts

Hi There,

I understand what you mean. In the interest of the environment styrofoam is avoided as much as possible.

The cardboard can be a bit tricky. I know of colleges that actually give degrees in packaging.

I think the best bet is to photgraph it before taking it out and then gluing the pick on the outside of the package.

You can laminate the photo so it will last at least as long as the packaging itself.

I do this with my tools and parts in my workshop and garage so I don't waste time opening every drawer and cupboard.

One might argue though the best place for any track is to be up and running all the time. :-)


Andy P.

1536 posts

Andy P.

1536 posts

Not a trivial answer...

Given the company has been around for over 50 yeras there are lots of changes.

The nigh definitiv answer is in Adrian Norman's Ultimate Guide.

There is also a the webpage with tons of info.

In the current range most cars have Mabuchi-style "S-can" motors in an inline configuration.

Some have the same motor as a sidewinder and a few have the FF motor as an inliner.

Most of the S-Cans are around 18k to 20k RPM.

The FF is higher revving.

As far as performance parity there hunderds if not thousands of factors to consider.

A quick google search on slot car performance will give oyu the basics though...

Andy P.

1536 posts

It does sound like a problem with the install.

Uninstalling the app, restarting the iPad (make sure you have the latest iOs on the iPad) and reinstalling might help.

Make sure the iPad is not trying to connect to any other Bluetooth devices as well.

Andy P.

1536 posts

One can never say never but currently with lots of other mostly free or low-cost alternatives out there it is not high on their list any time soon.

If oyu search the forums you will see many use Ultimate Racer and other similar software that are easy to use as well.

Andy P.

1536 posts

To my knowledge this person has no affiliation with Scalextric or Hornby and is a completely independent reviewer:


Andy P.

1536 posts

MMMmmmmm Miura.... Cool

Andy P.

1536 posts

Thanks fo ryour thoughts.

Most of those Carrera pieces come at the price of no longer being analog compatibility if I understand correctly.

I never understood why they have so many straight lane changes except that it does force you to drive in a more tactical manner because you could get "stuck" in one lane.

You could of course disable half of a straight lane change (XLC) for the same effect but you may have trouble getting people to realize the flippers are disabled.

I wondered about the straight analog lane crossovers when I got back into slot cars a while ago. Nearly all track manufacturers have them in straights. Then I "twigged": Like so many things in the Scalextric catalog they realized that have a switch in the straight was pretty much a guarantee for massive crashes. By putting it in a curve where you have to slow down anyway you reduce that risk. That is part of the reasoning why the old straight lane chicane requires 3 whole straights to complete: You need to give people a chance to slow down. Also the person racing from outside to in is actually on the "racing line" and it looks more realistic.

All manufacturers that heavily support clubs (mostly of Spanish persuasion) have curved analog lane crossovers. Even the Germans have that in their Go line.

Apart from the lack of analog compatibility I vaguely remember there being other reasons why the curves lane changers (CLC) won't be back (apart from the cost) any time soon.  The brain is night firing on all cylinders but there was a good reason for it.

The narrow (chicanes) will never work with ARC PRO as it needs to keep the lanes seperate for analog compatibility. Making a "digital only" version of ARC PRO though would be cost prohibitive.

You could get darn close though with the C8222 adapters and the classic straight lane and R2 curve chicanes. The Spanish facsimile is sometimes .2 mm deeper than the Hornby Classic original but still shallower than Sport. I have sometimes dreamt of just cutting the Classic track along the slot and gluing or affixing the track to thin wood or stable plastic to get the guide depth.

To be honest though, I have not met many racers who like the cars getting that close. This is again what I be bold enough to say the modern Sport "squeeze" track is genius in that the cars get close enough to touch but not so close as to cause horrific crashes. Narrower cars can even go through side by side but the visual appeal is them getting close.

Personally I would like an R2 or even R3 version of the "squeeze/hairpin" R1.

At the end of the day the major inhibitor is cost. With Scalextric finally seeing some light we have to give them some time. The old adage is still true today: Good, Fast, Cheap: You can only have 2. If we want good pieces at a good price we will have to wait.

Without going to far down the politics rabbit hole with a a "no-deal" Brexit a real possibility any major investment or export is going to have to wait until the 51.89% get what they asked for. We all want them to be successful nonetheless.

As far as lack of different digital lane changers causing a lack of appeal: I would like to see hard evidence to prove that. I would argue most clubs are analog or analog plus digital. Very few are digital only (based on the lists of Clubs at SlotForum which is of course not exhaustive)

Digital racing is very different from analog and in many cases few people do both (I do both, but all very, very, poorly: My motto "Someone has to be last!") when you add in simulations and pitting I think having only XLCs is sufficient.

As you say yourself: If you want something more challenging there is a community to support you.

Andy P.

1536 posts

You can tell by looking at the plugs on the controller:

If thes look like a "stereo" head jack with 2 black rings they have brakes.

If they look lie "mono" wih one black ring they don't have brakes.

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