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Andy P.

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Andy P.

1653 posts


"Andy advice": Here you go! :-)

To be honest, we need more information. There are literally dozens of power supplies out there that have various options for repair and replacements.

Post a picture and we can help you out more!

Thanks

Andy P.

1653 posts


These look pretty straight white to me: https://www.scalextric.com/uk-en/ford-xb-falcon1.html A lot can affect white. If the seller took the picture under artificial light it will always look a little yellow/creamy.

The pictures on the page I posted was taken under studio lighting that should come close to natural sunlight.

Andy P.

1653 posts


On a side note: I have never found any planning software that is 100% accurate. You always end up making tweaks once you start putting the track together. So woodcote#s suggestion should be good to get going..

Andy P.

1653 posts


Thank goodness on the brillo pad!

You need to use booster cables and connect the power base part of the track to the point farthest away from it.

Under Sport track there are semi-oval "tombstone" tabe that can be pried up and a cable connected.

Some classic track has this as well, some doesn't. If it doesn't you have to solder it.

Care must be taken to not cross the lanes.

Andy P.

1653 posts


Hi grandformage and welcome to the forum!

I would repectfully disagree that ARC is "ovet the top" (if that is indeed what you meant by OTT).

Without reliably lap counting in the very least most slot car racing sessions descend quickly into arguments about who is first, what is second etc.

While I agree there are other means of lap counting I think ARC does a wonderful job particularly to newer enthusaists.

A "Brillo" or steel wook pad is actually one of the worst things you can use to clean track I am afraid to tell you.

Newer track does have a protective coating on it that is destroyed by such strong abrasions. Older, regular steel track (i.e. yours) did not have this so it is less of a problem.

What is however a really big issue is the steel wool gives off tins, microscopic steel filaments that get pulled into the slot cars' motors and will cause short circuits and failures. It can even lead to cars' motors burning up.

Run the strongest magnet you can find along the track to pick up thise filaments.

Then use a strong vacuum cleaner on all the track you cleaned (be careful because the same filaments can damage the vacuum cleaner) or if you are really worried use compressed air first and than vacuuming second. Wear a protective mask as these filaments can get breathed in and damage your lungs.

Wash the track with high pressure water (not car wash high pressure but from a hose[pipe]) and dry it off by hand followed by using a hair dryer. Then run the magnet and vacuum cleaner again. (Tedious I know but that steel is very hard to remove).

There is a good section on track cleaning on the site. Our train friends at Hornby also have a track cleaning rubber/eraser that is good at removing rust without damaging the track or creating steel dust.

Even after all of this you will likely find the track not condusting electricity well.

There are several options such as using conductive copper tape to rechroming or soldering wires underneath.

Personally I got rid of all my "Classic" track except for sections that are no longer made in the new Sport" version, such as the Goodwood chicane.

Googling suggests the controller that came with could be better?

Controllers are a fairly basic electric device but essential to good racing. I am nut sure which version of controller came with the set you mentioned but at the end of the day any controller and be made to work with any analog track with some splicing and soldering.

What works best depends on the cars, the length and style of track and of course budget.

So since I want more track, and the set I used to have from maybe 1980 was ace for years of use, I could buy one of those round upright blue transformers plus the track from way back then?

Transformers (mostly) just convert AC power to DC power to a specific output in amps and volts. Ideally you have one transformer per lane to avoid power surges when a car leaves the track and bot of those should be identical.

How do I link old 70's/80's track to the X4 track to other brands and is new Scalextric track different again?

I can't comment on other brands Cool but you can use teh C8222 converter piece to connect your "classic" track to the new Sport track.

The new Sport track is smoother i.e. less gripper.

What track length will one controller run, can two be used on the same two lane as a booster?

I don't completely understand this statement but you need 1 controller for each lane and ideally 1 power supply for each lane though on smaller tracks (less than 10 meters)  one power supply should suffice.

Suggestions on why my carefully stored track is almost useless, even on new out of the box cars?

 

 

Rust does not conduct electricity I am afraid. Particularly in the 80's things were made to lesser standards.

Is older track grippier?

In general yes, but there are differences as the track was made in the UK, France and Spain all to slightly different roughness standards.

Good luck.

 

Andy P.

1653 posts


Feel free to highlight this to Customer Care using the links located at the right.

While color photos do exist sometimes the exact dates and places get mixed up causing such mishaps...

Andy P.

1653 posts


It was shown heavily at Gaydon and worked flawlessly the whole time.

They are aiming for an August release in the UK.

US soon after.

Andy P.

1653 posts


Ah yes... that would be an issue...

Andy P.

1653 posts


bummed out that it isn’t DPR even though it says it is

Where was it stated that it was DPR?

A lot of people see the back of the package where ALL the features a car could possibly have are listed and think they all apply when the actual features the car has are only on the front and/or top.

If this is an online lisitng the retailer must be contacted to have the listed corrected.

Andy P.

1653 posts


I totally get!

The Le Mans Spitfires actually won their class in '65, overshadowed slightly by the bigger sports cars.

Get Graham Robsen's book about the Works Triumphs. Great read!

Scalextric did do a TR7 many years ago and they pop up from time to time.

There is also a TR4 that commands high prices.

Scalextric's sister brand Airfix still offers the TR4 as a kit.

A lot of those cars are available as 1/43 scale miniatures but rarely in 1/32 and practically not at all in 1/24 and 1/18...

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