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Andy P.

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Andy P.

1599 posts


Technically and car with a digital chip will run on ARC PRO so also keep an exe out for older used digital sets with digital cars in them.

Some sellers also break up these sets so you can buy just the digital bits.

Also remember that wuthg DPR you really only need 6 chips (and maybe a spare) as you can swap the chips out in seconds.

You can get a similar experience with the retro chips by by using plugs instead of soldering the chip in directly. Not as fast as DPR but close. The only proble is the LED but if you use blue tac/hot glue to hold it but can be removed.

Andy P.

1599 posts


Andy P.

1599 posts


Are you talking about the smaller H0 aka 1/64 scale cars or the more common 1/32 scale cars?

At the end of the day any scale can be raced "magless" or "gravity". It is a different way of racing that requires a more careful set up in weight distribution, center of gravity, tire adhesion and axles setup (among other things)...

Andy P.

1599 posts


Moved from Micro Section: If this is incorrect let me know...

Andy P.

1599 posts


DR_C has dissected quite a few ARC PROs (I have nightmares of zombie powerbases rising up in anarchy) and can answer definitely but my guess is that the sensors are different.

There are, if I remember, actually 2 different sensors in the powerbase and only one counts laps. It also has to trigger this to the APP, whether this is in the APP itself or in the powerbase I don't know as it is all a bit of black magic to me.

The 4-lane digital topic has been discussed but some very capable people to if I recall no one has found an easy solution, yet....

 

Andy P.

1599 posts


While I appreciate the message you are ultimately trying to communicate:

When running a large track (common rule of them is over 10 meters/30 feet) or when using more than 3 cars you should use two power supplies

and I also appreciate that it may have been frustrating figuring this out: To be honest you describing in full detail the behavior of ARC PRO when there is insufficient power power will surely help new users but I get the feeling you are trying to state there is a design flaw or something fundamentally wrong with ARC PRO that I would argue is not the case.

All powerbases produced that can drive more than 4 cars have 2 power inputs for a reason: You need extra power.

Also ANY layout, either analog or digital over 10 meters might have problems, particularly if the connections are nor perfect.

Finally, this very question has been asked on here (and other forums) many many times and answered, usually within a matter of hours.

I only have the ARC PRO upgrade powerbase and I admit the quick start guide does not mention when 2 power supplies are needed but the very first picture shows 2 being plugged in.

Slot racing's learning curve is unfortunately a bit steep, digital in particular. It is not helped that there are no standards for digital either. Still, once this curve is surmounted there are very few things that could be arduous to resolve.

Let me reiterate: Thanks to the pain you went through many will now know what happens when the track is underpowered. This is something that I have never done because I have always known that when either 4 or more cars are racing or if the track is over 10 meters you need 2 power supplies.

I would like to encourage people though to use the search function or ask questions before wording things in an accusatory to inflammatory manner.

If that was not your intent I apologize but as I am likely thousands of miles away from you I can't hear the inflection of your voice or see your body language to know your intentions are purely benevolent.

I am glad you got it sorted out, I have raced on a 20 meter track with 6 cars for 10 hours straight without problems (with 2 power supplies!) so I am sure things will work swimmingly now.

Enjoy the holiday weekend if you can!

Andy P.

1599 posts


Andy P.

1599 posts


Andy P.

1599 posts


Could you please post some pictures?

Seeing exactly what the offending section looks like would help.

Also 20+ what? Feet? Yards? meters? Wombats? Cool (granted the last 3 are about the same length... :-D)

It sounds to me though as if it is simply propblem of track connections not being perfect:

See the  section about power drops here.

Tightening the tabs is vital for a good connection.

Also if the raiels are tarnished in any way that will degrade power.

The usualy track troubleshooting applies: Does the problem occur when you connect the section of the track directly to the powerbase?

Andy P.

1599 posts


It's not just for children! Particularly if you run magless (aka gravity cars) you will likely want to reduce the power.

Options:

If you are using ARC ONE you use the little dial on the side (you need to use a flathead screwdriver) and you can turn it to limit how far teh trigger can be pulled. There is a new style of analog controller coming out with a slider that can be set to 25%, 50%, 75% and 100% to limit the trigger pull.

For ARC AIR and ARC PRO you go into the driver set up and set the maximum power in 1% increments.

You can also adjust the how the power is delviered by selecting one of 4 profiles or making your own. For example I always select a profil where maximum power is not delivered right away, that way the cars don't get full power until the trigger is pressed for a few seconds.

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