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Andy P.

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Andy P.

1707 posts


The latest Test Track is all about the new Micro Sets.

Andy P.

1707 posts


Andy P.

1707 posts


It is being looked to and worked on. It just is slow at times.

Andy P.

1707 posts


Hi There and welcome to the forum.

Make sure you have the latest version of the app.

The cars that are included in the app under My Garage are manually added by Hornby so only the latest will have the most cars.

I have suggested to the development team to make the My Garage an open platform so that enthusiasts can add into but that is still being reviewed....

As an alternative you can take a photo of the car and use it.

When I ddi an even a few years back I had re-liveried (is that a word?) the cars and to make it easier for people took photos so that they could more easily recognize their cars.

Andy P.

1707 posts


It could just be bad contact between the plate and the pickups.

Make sure the plate is on correctly (they have a front/back and top/bottom) and/or apply power directly to the pickups under the plate.

If the motor works with power directly to the pickups it is defintiely a a plate problem.

Andy P.

1707 posts


It sounds very much like a wire has come loose inside the car.

To be sure though take a 9 volt battery and apply it to the braids. If it is still not working take the braid plate off and apply the battery deirctly to the metal pick ups under the braid plate.

If the motor works then likely the braid plate is on upside down and not making contact to the pick ups.

If it still doesn't work you will have to inspect the insides of the car.

The cars with the set come with digital chips in them already but I am not sure if they are the digital chip plugs or if they are soldered directly to the car.

In any case, carefully take the body off by unscrewing it remembering where which screw was removed (they might be different lengths) and make a visual inspection if any cables have come loose.

You may have to jiggle them a bit.

The digital plug is the microchip in the middle of the car. Check it for obvious signs of damage or burning.

If you can, get a 9 volt battery and try to connect it directly the motor. You may need a small piece of wire to do that or someting else that conducts electricity.

If anything seems out of order after all this you should first contact where you got the set from and/or Hornby customer care with the links at the right.

Andy P.

1707 posts


HI Tom,

If you can afford it getting guardrails all the way around will go a long way in keeping cars from making a nose dive.

There was a guardrail and clip pack (C8212)  available a while ago that I really like as you can adjust how far out the guardrail is from the track: Directly attached, about 4 mm out and a good 7 mm out.

https://www.scalextric.com/us-en/barrier-and-clips-pack.html

All new sport guradrails fit in the clips so even if you can just get the clips it can go a long way.

It has been out of production for a while  though.

There are of course lots of guardrails and borders available that connect directly to the track. The "classic" borders that are the length of a half-straight are usually very easy to get.

https://www.pinterest.com/pin/789959590866113859/

The really old 60's style guardrails that are the length of a full straight are also quite common.

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/R~kAAOSwbeBdGeL2/s-l300.jpg

They are the thin, spindly ones in the picture ext to the "classic" barriers. I use those on straights where the chance of the car flying off are really low. They can be very brittle though and may need taping.

Actually all barriers and borders might need taping to hold in place.

Give that there are some tracks of the same dimensions and thickness made in other countries (Sp@in) there fences and borders will fit as well.

I think Slot Car Scenics makes a catch fence that is much higher. You might need to do that at the end of high speed straights.

Depending on whether you want to modify your pig pong table you can of course just get some wood and nail it to..... Cool

As far as storage is concerned the original packaging is usually goo as it keeps the tires off the ground and protects from dust.

Any box will do but you should try to keep the wheels off the ground and they should be enclosed. A lot of people store them on their roofs.

Spare, older classic track can usually be cheaply bought and used for displaying.

Just some ideas!

Andy P.

1707 posts


Hi There and welcome,

I doubt you will get any reliable information here.

There really is little rhyme or reason why one set is worth more than any other (yes there are such things as rarity and condition but that is about it).

There is a book called the "Ultimate Guide to Scalextric" that details the most about what one can expect to get for a set without naming a price.

Using the "closed auctions" option on only auction sites will also show you for how much a set has gone in the past.

Just an FYI we currently can't support selling on this forum (see the rule about personal info to the right).

Andy P.

1707 posts


Some non-Hornby cars pull more amps than the power supply can handle.

I have heard of people using laptop power suplies up to 4 amps on ARC AIR with no problems but that does void warranty.

I don't have any pioneer cars so not sure what amps they pull or if it is possible to replace the motors.

Andy P.

1707 posts


Try deleting the APP completely and reinstalling. Sometimes there are issues when installing.

Also try the legacy app as woodcote suggested.

Also try different devices if possible. There is a pinned thread with dozens of compatible devices.

Rarely cars can cause interference if they have had the noise supressors (sometimes called ferrite men) removed .

Cars must have black guide blades to have te laps counted.

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