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Andy P.

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Andy P.

1633 posts


Andy P.

1633 posts


Andy P.

1633 posts


Could you please post some pictures?

Seeing exactly what the offending section looks like would help.

Also 20+ what? Feet? Yards? meters? Wombats? Cool (granted the last 3 are about the same length... :-D)

It sounds to me though as if it is simply propblem of track connections not being perfect:

See the  section about power drops here.

Tightening the tabs is vital for a good connection.

Also if the raiels are tarnished in any way that will degrade power.

The usualy track troubleshooting applies: Does the problem occur when you connect the section of the track directly to the powerbase?

Andy P.

1633 posts


It's not just for children! Particularly if you run magless (aka gravity cars) you will likely want to reduce the power.

Options:

If you are using ARC ONE you use the little dial on the side (you need to use a flathead screwdriver) and you can turn it to limit how far teh trigger can be pulled. There is a new style of analog controller coming out with a slider that can be set to 25%, 50%, 75% and 100% to limit the trigger pull.

For ARC AIR and ARC PRO you go into the driver set up and set the maximum power in 1% increments.

You can also adjust the how the power is delviered by selecting one of 4 profiles or making your own. For example I always select a profil where maximum power is not delivered right away, that way the cars don't get full power until the trigger is pressed for a few seconds.

Andy P.

1633 posts


As far as "realism" is concerned: At an event I used single right-hand pit entries but I used 2-lane straights after that. I put models on the far right "dead" lane" and it looked very nice.

Scalextric made some converter straights a long time ago with the word "PIT" printed on them. I used these and I think it looked nifty.

I agree with woodcote though that there are way too many lane cahngers (either pit entry or straight LCs) that you simply cannot react fast enough to get them to work proporly i.e. without a lot of crashing.

Since you can pit anywhere with ARC PRO you can park and pit without going through the pits...

Andy P.

1633 posts


They all have the same chassis and the only real difference is if they have an interior and/or mirrors.

I love them!

Andy P.

1633 posts


Very seldomly the rear axles pops out on one side in such a mild manner that it is barely noticeable.

As woodcote says, there were unfortunately a few models that had the blister under the crown gear molded too largely and this may need sanding down.

If this is the problem and you don't want to modify the car you should return it to try to get a replacement/refund.

Andy P.

1633 posts


You need the retro chip.

The chassis already has a hole in the right place for the LED behind the guide and the chip sits nicely between the splines in the the chassis.

I call these cars "retro chip ready"=RCR.

You will need to solder the chip inbetween the guide and the motor.

There are lots of videos about this as well as instructions in the package...

Andy P.

1633 posts


The part number is different depending on the country you are in because plugs are different around the world.

Whatever part number is on the power supply you have should be the correct one for your country.

Andy P.

1633 posts


woodcote is more of a guru about this but I think the idea with the straight lane changers (LCs) at the beginning and end is so that you can get out of the way of cars exiting the pits.

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