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Barryhi33

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barryhi33

93 posts

@Blagard-01

So Dr_C the diagram below will also work DIGITAL ONLY without any of the limitations. For Analogue when the modified quarters are replaced all limitations on layout apply.

Note that the wiring to cross the dead spots is not the same on each quarter, one must be the mirror reversal of the other.

 

 

Hi - Blaggards image suggests 2 pieces of track are needed but Dr_C seems to refer to only 1 piece of track needs cutting.

Sure its me but could someone just clarify please.

 

Thanks

barryhi33

93 posts

@Blagard-01

So Dr_C the diagram below will also work DIGITAL ONLY without any of the limitations. For Analogue when the modified quarters are replaced all limitations on layout apply.

Note that the wiring to cross the dead spots is not the same on each quarter, one must be the mirror reversal of the other.

 

Sorry I need some clarification .....

This image suggets 2 pieces of track are needed with the cuts and cross wired.

Dr_C only seems to be talking about 1 track.

Sure its me not understanding but if someone could just clarify please.

 

Thanks

barryhi33

93 posts

Hi - you can run more than 1 pace car but the issue is that each car gets counted when completing laps.

what I do is space out the other cars on the track (basically to act as obstacles during the race) I then set the number of laps to a high number ..... for example ...... with pace cars I set the laps to something like 90 ..... as the pace cars complete 3 laps to my 1 they obviously win the race. I then check my laps and if I have completed more than 30 ( 90/3 ) then I won.

barryhi33

93 posts

Yeah I thought about that and decided to risk it - if they do charge then as long as it’s only £20 ‘ish I am no worse off than buying them here.

barryhi33

93 posts

I have ordered 2 extra ARC PRO controllers from the states at £41.00 the pair including delivery.

Should be here in the next 2 weeks - tracking currently says;

PROCESSED THROUGH USPS FACILITY

Dec-28-17, 09:57 AM, JAMAICA, NY 11430

 

barryhi33

93 posts

For what it’s worth I experienced a similar problem. 

I found by trial and error that i only had the problem when the controllers were not synced to the first four colours on the base station.

Base station buttons colours are : 1. Red  2. Green  3. Blue  4. Yellow  5. Orange  6. White

i.e. Originally synced the controllers to Red / Green / Blue / Orange (colours 1, 2, 3, 5) then I had problems ( I used those colours to match the wrist straps on the controllers)

When I synced Red / Green / Blue / Yellow ( colours 1, 2, 3, 4) then no problem.

 

This May be a complete red herring but maybe they need to be sequential without gap if only using 4 cars - worth checking.

barryhi33

93 posts

Kers - double click the lane change button and the car gets 100% power for 3 seconds ( when using Kers the cars are automatically limited to 80% power during racing)

Yellow flag - during racing, when a car leaves the track touch the tablet screen and all cars are slowed to the speed you previously set when calibrating the cars. When the car has been replaced on the track touch the tablet screen again and normal speed is resumed.

Maximum of 3 cars on 1 power pack.

barryhi33

93 posts

Thanks

thats sounds quite straight forward.

Just our of interest - secondhand wired digital controllers are quite cheap to buy.... do you know if the arc air innards could be transferred to a wired case i.e. is the moulding the same so the circuit boards would slot in place ?

cheers

barryhi33

93 posts

Think a re-wire is still the best solution if possible .........

barryhi33

93 posts

Interesting reults.

I have 2 Arc Air controllers. After rotating the boards the first one seems to work almost perfectly for lane changing (I say almost as there is the odd occasion where it does not register but perfectly useable) - the second one was not so succesful. Looking at the circuit boards the buttons are not equal distance from the edges of the board so the contact is not central when depressing the button on the controller. Strange why one works and the other does not (it does work sometimes but too infrequently to be useable), maybe due to build tolerances ?

Basically the board needs to move down very slightly to line up correctly but due to the casing the board fits very snugly in its designed location......................................................

Update on 2nd controller: Just heated a blade and loosened the retaining slot so I could 'ease' it down a bit and this allowed the circuit board to move fractionally so the button is more central. The slot holds the board quite tight so don't think it will move of its own accord. Working so far but will monitor.

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