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Barryhi33

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barryhi33

98 posts

For what it’s worth I experienced a similar problem. 

I found by trial and error that i only had the problem when the controllers were not synced to the first four colours on the base station.

Base station buttons colours are : 1. Red  2. Green  3. Blue  4. Yellow  5. Orange  6. White

i.e. Originally synced the controllers to Red / Green / Blue / Orange (colours 1, 2, 3, 5) then I had problems ( I used those colours to match the wrist straps on the controllers)

When I synced Red / Green / Blue / Yellow ( colours 1, 2, 3, 4) then no problem.

 

This May be a complete red herring but maybe they need to be sequential without gap if only using 4 cars - worth checking.

barryhi33

98 posts

Kers - double click the lane change button and the car gets 100% power for 3 seconds ( when using Kers the cars are automatically limited to 80% power during racing)

Yellow flag - during racing, when a car leaves the track touch the tablet screen and all cars are slowed to the speed you previously set when calibrating the cars. When the car has been replaced on the track touch the tablet screen again and normal speed is resumed.

Maximum of 3 cars on 1 power pack.

barryhi33

98 posts

Thanks

thats sounds quite straight forward.

Just our of interest - secondhand wired digital controllers are quite cheap to buy.... do you know if the arc air innards could be transferred to a wired case i.e. is the moulding the same so the circuit boards would slot in place ?

cheers

barryhi33

98 posts

Think a re-wire is still the best solution if possible .........

barryhi33

98 posts

Interesting reults.

I have 2 Arc Air controllers. After rotating the boards the first one seems to work almost perfectly for lane changing (I say almost as there is the odd occasion where it does not register but perfectly useable) - the second one was not so succesful. Looking at the circuit boards the buttons are not equal distance from the edges of the board so the contact is not central when depressing the button on the controller. Strange why one works and the other does not (it does work sometimes but too infrequently to be useable), maybe due to build tolerances ?

Basically the board needs to move down very slightly to line up correctly but due to the casing the board fits very snugly in its designed location......................................................

Update on 2nd controller: Just heated a blade and loosened the retaining slot so I could 'ease' it down a bit and this allowed the circuit board to move fractionally so the button is more central. The slot holds the board quite tight so don't think it will move of its own accord. Working so far but will monitor.

barryhi33

98 posts

They certainly would Wink

barryhi33

98 posts

I believe you may well be right  - the button seems quite positive to the touch but will find out tomorrow if any good or not.

I did remove the trigger & spring to route the cable underneath which was a lot better.

Just in case - a diagram would be helpful as I would be outside my comfort zone with re-wiring.

 

 

barryhi33

98 posts

Out of interest I just disassembled the controller to have a look. There is just enough cable to allow the circuit board to be reversed so the previously hidden lane change button is now under the actual button on the controller. Sadly I cannot test now but I will try tomorrow to see if it works.

A slight problem is some of the wires are now stretched over the trigger spring so I am concerned they may wear eventually but may be a short term fix.

Will update tomorrow if its worked.

barryhi33

98 posts

Sorry - should have asked that question to Dr_C

barryhi33

98 posts

@Dr_C

Hi Blagard-01,

 

Just to confirm my early production version of the ARC AIR included two of the single button versions of the wireless throttles. These have a small pcb which has two pcb buttons fitted i.e. one remains concealed. I can confirm this concealed button is FULLY FUNCTIONAL for lane changing with ARC PRO.

 

Hence, if you want to use with ARC PRO there are three simple options:

 

1/ cross wire two of the wires to this button pcb (yellow and white if I remember correctly) so you have lane change functionality in place of brake.

2/ use the slot-it 3-D printed plastic button top and cut the casing as appropriate.

3/ wait for someone to design a better 3-D replica of the standard button top.

 

Hope the above positive update is helpful.

 

C

Hi Blagard-01

 

Long shot but I don't suppose you have a pic of the wiring job for the controller to make it useable for Arc Pro ?

Thanks

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