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MichaelDrago

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Has anyone ever made a high banked curve by using the flex that's inherent in the track?

 

I was thinking of making a wide one, to avoid wheel base issues, with straights that I "bend" around a wide curve after "trusting" it up into the curve.

 

So it would sweep high and wide using a sight bending of staights.

 

Thoughts?

This is one that I'm curious about.

Do all of the old style sport controllers have braking when you let off the trigger?

I'm telling about the old sport ones with the round plug.

If not, hpw do you know, without taking it apart, which ones do?

I have one of the old sport power bases that take two of the round plug transformers, 16v I think. They use the old braking controllers with round plugs.

I'm trying to find the transformers with American plus for it.

Does anyone know the part number and/or a source for them?

Thank you fur all if your help.

I took it to someone I knew that works repairing circuit boards and he came to the she conclusion.

I'm using it with another power base.

 

Its the best it's good for.

@Dr_C

So we are looking at the possibility of a short somewhere between the pcb copper tracks or a failed Q3. This is the transistor which applies the brake function to one of the lanes when activated, i.e. when its gate electrode is driven positive by a signal from the main microcontroller. The transistor should normally be open circuit. This is a surface mount transistor so a little bit of a challenge to remove. Lets look at the photographs before considering next steps. How are your soldering skills and/or dremel skills?

 

C

Were it soldering wiring, I'd be good, but never done anything on a board. I think that might be beyond me. But I may know someone.

@Dr_C

OK, I suggest the following next steps...

 

1/ please visually inspect the area where you removed the flek... is there any chance the copper track is visibly bridging between pin 3 and pin 4? Another photo would help ifpossible please?

 

2/ with the 15V power supply completed disconnected, and with the four pin track power plug also removed please take five measurements with the meter set to the lowest resistance measurement setting. Please measure resistance between pins 1 and 2 - then again with the probes reversed. The please measure resistance between pins 4 and 3 - then again with the probe pins reversed. Finally measure the resistance of the probe leads by touching the two probe tips together directly.

 

This data should help with final pin-pointing ofthe problem...

 

I still suspect the site of the flek of debris I am sure together we can get this powerbase back into full working order... which continent do you live in?

 

C

Ok, on the bad side. That the side closest to Q3, where I think I might see some heat distortion on the back side (pic coming)

I get a slow drop from 1 ohm to .6 regardless of which lead is on either pin.

On the good side, I get no resistance from pin to pin in either direction of lead placement.

 

Lead to lead I get .4 ohms. My meter (I'm using a cheap one because my good one is in my car, but it is functional) is set at the lowest setting of 200ohms.

I'm in the us.

Testing now.

Posted another picture, waiting...

@Dr_C

Just to add clarity... the flek of debris is located precisely where, if the solder mask was missing... an electrical short would result between ground and the PWM track output.  This would lead to a current overload whenever the corresponding throttle controller is pressed... sound familar?

 

C

If you look to the right of the pointer I think I see some discoloration that might be overheating? It's like a faint white corner like originating at a solder point that is Q3. It is on the side of the connector that's the problem, but I do not know if it is directly connected.

@Dr_C

Just to add clarity... the flek of debris is located precisely where, if the solder mask was missing... an electrical short would result between ground and the PWM track output.  This would lead to a current overload whenever the corresponding throttle controller is pressed... sound familar?

 

C

I can also hear the short on the board. When they control is triggered, there is a momentary high pitched buzz. More I do not get with the working control.

It's only for a second and does not continue if there trigger is held.

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